"On the 2nd of November, 1852, in the steam packet _Orinoco_, I set
sail, or rather set steam, from England. For the first ten days I
remained in bed in all the agonies of seasickness. Some persons,
particularly poets, find some pleasure in a voyage, but I confess the
_nil nisi pontus et aer_ is to me the most distasteful sight in
creation, especially when the _pontus_ is rough. The passengers were
chiefly Spaniards to Havana and Germans who were going to 'improve
their prospects'--how I have no idea, but, from the appearance of the
gentlemen, they might have done so {32} without becoming
millionaires. At nine we breakfasted, at twelve lunched, at four
dined, and at seven tea'd. The rest of the day was passed on deck.
Through storm and sunshine the majority of the foreigners played at
bull, a species of marine quoits. The ladies always knitted, and the
English read Dickens' _Household Words_. In the evening there was
dancing. There was an unfortunate devil of a mulatto on board who
offended the prejudices of the planters by dancing with the white
ladies. 'Why,' they said, 'that fellow ought to be put up to auction
unless anybody owns him.' In eating and these interesting diversions
the day passed. The only incident that enlivened the voyage was,
that one night the Germans had an immense bowl of punch brewed (I
wish I had the recipe of that said punch, for a better brew I never
tasted) and sang sentimental songs. One German went round and
informed the English they were going to drink to _die_ King of
England, and, amid immense applause, they bawled out 'Gott save _die_
Queen.' As the punch got to their heads the songs became more
sentimental. A Bonn student seized the bowl, and wished to drink it
to the Fatherland, when another, who saw no reason why the Bonn
gentleman should consecrate the whole to his patriotism, knocked him
down. This was the signal for a general row. Some were sick, some
sang, while a little Jew, who, before, I had considered a steward,
enlivened the scene by dancing about in his night-shirt. On coming
up the next morning I found the Bonn student offering generally to
fight a duel with any person who asserted he had misbehaved himself.
As no one was valorous enough to do so, the student retired into
'bull.' At St. Thomas we changed steamers and almost died of heat.
The mulatto turned out very smart, which excited the ire of one of
the planters, who said, 'Look at that fellow with a new coat, he
ought to be diving about naked for half-pence in the water.'
Decency, however, forbade the mulatto taking the kindly meant advice.
Ten days after leaving St. Thomas we arrived at Vera Cruz. I ought
to {33} have felt some sort of enthusiasm on first seeing America,
but a mosquito had stung me in the eye, so that I saw it under
difficulties; indeed, a person must possess a large amount of
enthusiasm to be aroused into any outward display by the sandbanks
and plaguish-looking shore of Vera Cruz. I had a letter to a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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