Next morning, even under
these difficulties, I could not help admiring the scenery. The only
three snowy peaks in Mexico were all distinctly visible, while the
road wound through mountains rising perpendicularly from the plain.
One we passed is called after Cortes' wife, and exactly resembles in
its outlines a giant asleep. At the close of the third day we
reached Mexico.
"When the city was in the midst of a lake and approached by causeways
it might have excited the admiration of Cortes and his army. In the
midst of a dry swamp it failed to excite mine. The advance of Cortes
from the shore to the capital was wonderful, but I really think it
was to be preferred to the diligence and unpaved road. All
sufferings have an end, and mine ended in the diligence hotel. I had
imagined, from travellers' accounts, that I should be lucky if I got
a corner in a barn with half a dozen mules, but I found myself
sleeping {35} in a comfortable room and dining at a table d'hôte in a
most distressingly civilised manner."
Labouchere does not think it necessary to his dignified narrative to
mention the fact that his tutor accompanied him on this journey, but,
upon a reference to his note-book, we find that the long-suffering
Mentor formed one of the party. Labouchere is no less severe upon
himself and his iniquities in America than he was in England. He
wrote:
"We landed at Vera Cruz and proceeded to Mexico. In two months I
lost all my money and £250 besides at cards. To induce my Mentor to
pay this sum I retired to a neighbouring town and stated my intention
to remain there until he provided the money. Here, in the _bena
caliente_, in a small inn, with no companion but the innkeeper, I
remained for a month. Here I reconsidered my life and determined to
commence afresh. I asked myself upon what ground I rested my title
to differ from the common race of fools. Was I clever? A scholar?
I had read a little. On most subjects I was ignorant--in society I
could argue, but not converse. With a lady, with a duenna, with
every person in whose society I found myself, I introduced my sole
subject--gambling. I told everybody that I had recently lost £6000,
which I imagined raised me in their opinion. I could not dance, and
I shunned society. I was conceited, and I was unwilling to confess
my ignorance of anything. I was an abominable and useless liar, as I
was fond of relating adventures of myself that had really never taken
place. I was ready to make acquaintance with every person who spoke
to me. Of music, drawing, and all the lighter arts I knew absolutely
nothing. I was one thing and one alone--a gambler--on that subject I
could be eloquent; but I felt that I could not consider myself
superior to the generality of mankind on this ground alone. In
playing even I failed, because, though I theoretically discovered
systems by which I was likely to win, yet, in practice, I could
command myself so little that upon a slight loss I left all to
chance."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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