The old-fashioned restaurant Zum Rothen Igel, where Brahms was for many
years a 'Stammgast'--_i.e._, a daily customer--is situated in a corner
of the Wildpret Markt close to the Augustinestrasse. Brahms did not
frequent the regular dining-room of the house, but took his dinner in a
low, dark, vaulted chamber at the back, on the ground-floor, ordinarily
used by waiters, coachmen, and similar guests. Here, at a table near a
door leading to a small, gloomy courtyard, many a distinguished guest,
the Landgraf of Hesse, Joachim, and many another, has partaken in our
master's company of the homely but well-cooked dishes that he preferred.
In fact, but few prominent musical visitors to Vienna quitted the
imperial city without making the acquaintance, under Brahms' auspices,
of the dingy apartment in the Wildpret Markt now called 'the Brahms
room' and decorated with a photograph of the master. He was very often
joined at his mid-day meal by resident friends and acquaintances, and
often supped at the Igel after a concert with a party of musicians.
Amongst those most frequently seen with him were his old friends Epstein
and Door and a circle of the young men in whom he took an interest; at
the date now reached by our narrative, Mandyczewski and Rottenberg were
his almost daily companions. If he supped alone at the Igel, he
preferred to take his place in a corner behind the house-door, which was
screened from the taproom by a red curtain and was just large enough to
hold a table and bench, occupied in slack hours by the manager. During
the short time that the weather permitted, he dined, after his return to
Vienna at the beginning of October, in the 'garden'--_i.e._, at one of
the two or three tables placed outside the house, and flanked by large
pots of ever-greens which were carried away when the days became cold.
During the last ten years of his life Brahms allowed himself to accept
more invitations than formerly to dine or sup with one and another of
the small group of families forming his immediate circle, and when
invited out he liked, and even expected, to be asked to a good table and
to have good wine put before him. He retained the notion, universal in a
former generation, but now out of date, that it was incumbent on a
bidden guest, not only to appreciate, but to show appreciation, of the
hospitality of his host and hostess. 'There are people,' he used to say,
'who are afraid of showing that they like a good dinner.' Brahms was
certainly not one of these. He was prepared to do ample justice to the
recherché cookery and excellent wines with which his friends liked to
regale him, but he was at no period of his life either a glutton or a
wine-bibber, and, indeed, never varied from the abstemious habits which
the early circumstances of his life had made incumbent on him as a young
man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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