On his arrival in Vienna, Brahms put up at the Hôtel Kronprinz in the
Leopoldstadt, moving soon afterwards into a room at 39, Novaragasse, of
the same inexpensive quarter, then called the Jägerzeil. Several of his
old friends were fortunately at hand. Grädener had given up his position
in Hamburg the preceding year to try his fortune in Vienna; Frau
Passy-Cornet, whose name calls the concert of 1848 to remembrance, was
now a professor of singing at the Vienna Conservatoire; and, a very few
weeks after Brahms' arrival, Arthur Faber, lately married to Fräulein
Bertha Porubszky, brought his bride to their home in the imperial city.
His house was, of course, open to Johannes, who spent many, and
especially Sunday, evenings with these friends. Amongst the most
treasured memories of their early wedded life are those of performances
of his compositions, played as he could play when quietly at ease with a
few sympathetic friends for all audience.
From the first he felt at home in Vienna. The good-natured, easy-going
Austrian people attracted him, and he at once conceived an affection for
the Prater, in the immediate vicinity of which his hotel was situated.
This great park of the Kaiserstadt contains, indeed, attractions to suit
every variety of taste. There is the Hauptallée, with its broad drive
and shady walks, its open-air cafés and music of military bands, which
play waltzes and various dance movements as they are played in no other
city. There is the Würstelprater, the playground of children and other
simple folk, where, in the fine-weather season, a continual fair goes
on with shows and games and entertainments of every kind likely to
attract the patronage of the multitude, and where in the Hungarian
restaurant, the 'Czarda,' real gipsy music played by a real gipsy band
may daily be heard. There is the wild portion, bounded on one side by
the Danube canal and stretching for some little distance beyond the
town, where the solitary walker may fancy himself in a forest far from
human habitation. Brahms, on this occasion of his first visit to Vienna,
particularly attached himself to the Würstelprater, for which he ever
after retained his partiality. The motley life to be seen there amused
and interested him. He came to be a frequent listener at the 'Czarda,'
and it is whispered that the spirit of fun has occasionally prompted
him, when at the height of his fame, to prevail upon a party of friends
to take a turn in his company on the curvetting horses of one or other
of the 'carrousels' which are amongst the most popular attractions of
this part of the grounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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