The Curculio in fact despises it, displaying a very strange contempt
when we consider the fervour with which the other legumina are
attacked. All, down to the meagre lentil, are eagerly despoiled; and
the haricot, so tempting both in size and in flavour, remains unharmed.
It baffles the understanding. For what reason does the Bruchus, who
passes without hesitation from the excellent to the indifferent and
from the indifferent to the excellent, disdain this delicious seed? She
leaves the everlasting pea for the green pea, she leaves the green pea
for the broad bean and the vetch, accepting the niggardly scrap and the
rich cake with equal satisfaction; and the attractions of the haricot
leave her uninterested. Why?
Apparently because this legumen is unknown to her. The others, whether
natives or acclimatized foreigners from the East, have been familiar to
her for centuries; she tests their excellence year by year and, relying
on the lessons of the past, she bases her forethought for the future
upon ancient custom. She suspects the haricot as a newcomer whose
merits she has still to learn.
The insect tells us emphatically that the haricot is of recent date. It
reached us from very far away, surely from the New World. Every edible
thing attracts those whose business it is to make use of it. If the
haricot had originated in the old continent, it would have had its
licensed consumers, after the manner of the pea, the lentil and the
others. The smallest leguminous seed, often no bigger than a pin’s
head, feeds its Bruchus, a dwarf that nibbles it patiently and hollows
it into a dwelling, whereas the plump and exquisite haricot is spared!
This strange immunity can have but one explanation: like the potato,
like maize, the haricot is a present from the New World. It arrived in
Europe unaccompanied by the insect that battens on it regularly in its
native land; it found in our fields other seed-eaters, which, because
they did not know it, despised it. In the same way, the potato and
maize are respected over here, unless their American consumers are
imported with them by accident.
The insect’s report is confirmed by the negative evidence of the
ancient classics: the haricot never appears on the rustic table of
their peasants. In Virgil’s second Eclogue, Thestylis is preparing the
reapers’ repast:
Thestylis et rapido fessis messoribus æstu
Allia serpyllumque herbas contundit olentes. [59]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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