The Life, Travels, and Literary Career of Bayard TaylorConwell, Russell H.
General
The Life, Travels, and Literary Career of Bayard Taylor
Conwell, Russell H.
Taylor, Bayard, 1825-1878
The chief merit of Mr. Taylor’s descriptions lay in their apparent
frankness and their charming details. He appeared to think that every
reader was acquainted with the works of those great archæologists,
Lepsius and Champollion, and did not attempt to supply to his readers the
information they had already given. He seems to have imagined that all
the reading public wished to follow him, and he gave such information
as the tourist would need. He told about the clothes he purchased in
Alexandria, about the fit of his Arab attire, about the cost of a dinner,
the conversation between dragomen and boatmen, the personal appearance of
his companions, the faithlessness of his guide, the dirty appearance of
his boat, and the gorgeous sunset. He described his own sensations and
actions with the boldness of one unconscious of any motive to conceal or
deceive. He reveals the sorrow of his heart by occasional remarks such as
these: “For many months past I had known no mood of mind so peaceful and
grateful.”—“I am away from reminders of sorrow.”—“It is not the beauty of
the desert that gratifies me so much, in these days, after all, as the
absence of civilization.”
The party, which consisted of Mr. Taylor, the German companion, and an
Italian, engaged one of the Nile boats, at Alexandria, for the trip up
the Nile, and after testing the comforts, or misery, of the Egyptian
hotels, seeing Cleopatra’s Needle (now in London) and Pompey’s Pillar,
which were then as in later years about all that there was to be seen
of interest in Alexandria, they started on their lazy voyage up the
wonderful Nile. He wrote with great enthusiasm of the sweet rest he found
in a pipe of tobacco, after the manner of all habitual smokers. He seems
to have had plenty of time to muse and smoke as he slowly ascended the
stream. It has often been a subject of wonder that he could afterwards
remember so many incidents and the impressions they had made on him, when
perhaps weeks of time and some more exciting transactions had intervened.
But Mr. Taylor did not wait long before recording his ideas and comments,
and was in the habit of keeping a memoranda-book always at hand, and
while travelling, noted with a pencil any peculiar thought or incident
which awakened attention.
At Atfeh, which has been for hundreds of years an intermediate
stopping-place on the highway and river between Alexandria and Cairo,
he clambered up into the town and witnessed a marriage procession. He
appears to have been inclined to get a near view of the bride; but the
relatives hurried her off, and with cries and threatening gestures drove
him back to cover. But he decided that if he could not see the bride, he
would do the next best thing, and accordingly visited her father. The
disconsolate parent was being comforted by a hoarse chant and appeared to
be as cheerful as could be expected considering the din.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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