The Life, Travels, and Literary Career of Bayard TaylorConwell, Russell H.
General
The Life, Travels, and Literary Career of Bayard Taylor
Conwell, Russell H.
Taylor, Bayard, 1825-1878
At the town of Nadir he went into a low mud hut, which pretended to be
a cafe, and there saw the Egyptian fandango danced by the inmates. He
records the shape and sound of the musical instruments and with polished
and concise language pictured the scene to the reader’s eye. This, with
the accounts of the improvements, rates of toll, and the manner of
passing the boats by locks, and government officials, with many minor
details is told in a manner which, notwithstanding the dryness of the
subject, makes most fascinating reading.
But he counted his entrance into Cairo, the capital of Egypt, as the
actual beginning of his tour into Africa. For at Alexandria and along
the Nile as far as Bourak the people exhibited some traits which connect
them with the civilized West. But Cairo is wholly Egyptian. The centuries
have made no apparent changes in the people. The donkeys, the veiled
women, the fierce Arabs, the water-skins, the fountains, the slaves,
the palms, the white domes, and the low shops revive the historical
associations and personify the Past. Like an oasis in the adjacent
desert was the Hotel d’Europe. But it served to impress the reality of
these surroundings more forcibly upon the travellers. With a readiness
and enjoyment which his companions did not share, he accustomed himself
to the manners and appearance of the people, and it was scarcely a day
before Mr. Taylor would smoke his perfumed chibouk, sit cross-legged,
and eat with his fingers like a native Arab. He rode the little donkeys
as well as any citizen of Cairo, and was even more reckless than they,
if that were possible, as he rode through the market-places at a furious
speed. The Egyptians, like the Germans, Italians, French, Hungarians,
and Syrians, felt a kind of fellowship for Mr. Taylor, and admired his
good-sense in appreciating and adopting so many of their customs. He was
the acquaintance and confidential friend of a dozen old Arabs before he
had been two days in Cairo. He was a lover of mankind. He sympathized
with them all. As the Shereef of Mecca rides by, Mr. Taylor admires his
dignity and his imposing retinue. As a marriage procession files through
the streets, he comments on the playing of the flutes, the crimson robes
of the bride, and the diadem, with the simplicity of a country maiden in
America. He enjoys the athletic tricks of the showmen, the skill of the
swordsmen, the voices of the singers, the zeal of the beggars, and the
endurance of the laborers. He is one of the same human family. They know
it, and feel it, and he is welcome.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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