The Life, Travels, and Literary Career of Bayard TaylorConwell, Russell H.
General
The Life, Travels, and Literary Career of Bayard Taylor
Conwell, Russell H.
Taylor, Bayard, 1825-1878
The German acquaintance, who had not intended to go farther than Cairo,
was so delighted with Mr. Taylor’s companionship and Mr. Taylor was so
interested in him, that he decided to go up the Nile as far as Assouan,
which was on the border of the Central African countries. Mr. Taylor
speaks with sentiments of enthusiastic thankfulness of his good fortune
in thus securing a travelling companion, whose tastes and sentiments were
so akin to his own. He little thought then, that while trying to shut
out his sorrow by voluntary exile, he was opening the door to a second
love. Mr. Taylor’s singular admiration and love for his companion is
almost unaccountable, unless we adopt some theory of foreordination or
providential design.
A most interesting, amusing, and friendly trip they had up the stream,
for thousands of years so historic, in a boat manned by ten boatmen,
and of which they were the commanders. Neither of them had ever been
in Egypt before, but their maps and guide-books, coupled with their
early historical training, made the localities along their route seem
more familiar to them than to the dragomen, who made it a business to
guide travellers. They named their boat the “Cleopatra,” ran up the
Stars and Stripes to the peak, and, with contented minds but active
brains, enjoyed to the full the strange scenes and historic ruins which
showed themselves on every hand. They first visited the Pyramids,
where Mr. Taylor gratified his taste for climbing heights, and nearly
killed himself by rushing down. With characteristic regard for those
who were to come after him, Mr. Taylor rebuked the importunities of the
backsheesh-loving Arabs about the Pyramids, and obtaining no satisfaction
from them, he reported them to the chief, who compelled the greedy
desperadoes to submit to a severe whipping.
They visited ancient Memphis, which the French explorer, Mariette, was
then exhuming, and trod the pavements over which had passed the feet
of Menes, Amasis, Pharaoh, Strabo, and Cambyses. They were hospitably
entertained by the great antiquarian, and felt that such a visit was
ample reward for all their outlay. From Memphis they proceeded to Siout,
and on the way talked, composed, and sung the praises of Father Nile.
It may be that Mr. Taylor’s mood, which he so often mentions, had an
influence upon his taste, or it may be that the season was one peculiarly
adapted to the exhibition of beauty in the Nile, but the writer, in a
later year, was not so charmed by the scenery and river as Mr. Taylor
appears to have been. No other traveller has written such glowing
encomiums upon the Nile as Mr. Taylor recorded in his letters, and either
he appreciated nature more than other travellers, or there was something
in his circumstances which placed a halo of beauty about the palms and
meadows. In the “Nilotic Drinking-Song” Mr. Taylor said:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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