The plain of Kosantina was intersected by a river, and of immense
fertility. Upon this plain numerous structures in an ancient style of
architecture were scattered about, and excellent gardens were planted
on both sides of the stream, to which you descended by steps cut in the
solid rock. Between the city and the river is a Roman triumphal arch,
supposed by the inhabitants to have been an ancient castle, which, as
they affirm, afforded a retreat to innumerable demons, previous to
the Mussulman conquest of the city, when, from respect to the true
believers, they took their departure. In the midst of the stream a very
extraordinary edifice was seen. Pillars, walls, and roof were hewn out
of the rock; but, notwithstanding the singularity of its construction,
it was put to no better use than to shelter the washerwomen of the city.
A very remarkable warm bath, likewise, was found in the vicinity of
Kosantina, around which, attracted by some peculiarity in the soil,
innumerable tortoises were seen, which the women of the place believed to
be demons in disguise, and accused of causing all the fevers and other
diseases by which they might be attacked. A little farther towards the
east, close to a fountain of singular coldness, was a marble structure
adorned with hieroglyphics and enriched with statues, which in the eyes
of the natives were so close a resemblance to life that, to account for
the phenomenon, they invented a legend, according to which this building
was formerly a school, both masters and pupils of which were turned into
marble for their wickedness.
In his way from Kosantina to Tunis, he passed by two cities, or rather
names of cities, the one immortalized by the prowess and enterprise of
its children, the other by the casual mention of the loftiest of modern
poets; I mean Carthage and Biserta. The former fills all ancient history
with its glory; but the reader would probably never have heard of the
latter but that its name is found in Paradise Lost:—
And all who since, baptized or infidel,
Jousted in Aspramont or Montalban,
Damasco, or Marocco, or Trebisond,
Or whom _Biserta_ sent from Africk shore,
When Charlemagne with all his peerage fell
By Fontarabia.
Carthage, though fallen to the lowest depths of misery, still contained
a small number of inhabitants, who concealed their wretchedness amid the
ruins of triumphal arches, aqueducts, and fortifications. Proceeding
westward from Tunis as far as the desert of Barca, and visiting all the
principal towns, whether in the mountains or the plains, without meeting
with any personal adventures which he thought worthy of describing, he
returned to Fez, and prepared for his second journey to Timbuctoo and the
other interior states of Africa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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