Crossing Mount Atlas, and proceeding directly towards the south, he
entered the province of Segelmessa, extending from the town of Garselvin
to the river Ziz, a length of about one hundred and twenty miles. Here
commences that scarcity of water which is the curse of this part of
Africa. Few or no inequalities in the surface of the ground, scanty
traces of cultivation, human habitations occurring at wide intervals,
and, in short, nothing to break the dreary uniformity of the scene but
a few scattered date-palms waving their fanlike leaves over the brown
desert, where at every step the foot was in danger of alighting upon a
scorpion resting in the warm sand. The few streams which creep in winter
over this miserable waste shrink away and disappear before the scorching
rays of the summer sun, which penetrate the soil to a great depth, and
pump up every particle of moisture as far as they reach. Nothing then
remains to the inhabitants but a brackish kind of water, which they
obtain from wells sunk extremely deep in the earth. Near the capital of
this province, which is surrounded by strong walls, and said to have been
founded by the Romans, Leo spent seven months; and except that the air
was somewhat too humid in winter, found the place both salubrious and
agreeable.
As he advanced farther into the desert, he daily became more and more
of Pindar’s opinion, that of all the elements water is the best,—the
wells becoming fewer, and their produce more scanty. Many of these
pits are lined round with the skins and bones of camels, in order to
prevent the water from being absorbed by the sand, or choked up when the
winds arise, and drive the finer particles in burning clouds over the
desert. When this happens, however, nothing but certain death awaits the
traveller, who is continually reminded of the fate which awaits him by
observing scattered around upon the sand the bones of his predecessors,
or their more recent bodies withered up and blackening in the sun. The
well-known resource of killing a camel for the water contained in his
stomach is frequently resorted to, and sometimes preserves the lives
of the merchants. In crossing this tremendous scene of desolation, Leo
discovered two marble monuments, when or by whom erected he could not
learn, upon which was an epitaph recording the manner in which those who
slept beneath had met their doom. The one was an exceedingly opulent
merchant, the other a person whose business it was to furnish caravans
with water and provisions. On their arriving at this spot, scorched by
the sun, and their entrails tortured by the most excruciating thirst,
there remained but a very small quantity of water between them. The
rich man, whose thirst now made him regard his gold as dirt, purchased
a single cup of this celestial nectar for ten thousand ducats; but that
which might possibly have saved the life of one of them being divided
between both, only served to prolong their sufferings for a moment, as
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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