Perceiving that the state of the country verged more and more every day
upon utter anarchy and confusion, our traveller came to the resolution
of departing at all hazards for Georgia, to demand its prince’s aid in
withdrawing his property from Mingrelia. His companion remained to watch
over it in his absence. Not being able to procure either guards or guides
from among the natives, for with all their misery there is no people
who fear death or danger more than the Mingrelians, he was constrained
to set out with a single domestic, who, as fate would have it, was the
most consummate scoundrel in his service. On the way to Anarghia, where
he was once more to embark on the Black Sea, he learned that the church
in which he had deposited his wealth had been sacked and stripped to the
bare walls, that the very graves had been opened, and every vestige of
property removed. Here was a new source of anguish. It was now a question
whether he was a rich or a poor man. He paused in his journey—sent off
an express to his companion—the ruins of the church were visited—and
their money found to be untouched. This circumstance, he informs us,
marvellously exalted his courage, and he proceeded with fresh vigour on
his new enterprise.
Embarking in a felucca at Anarghia, in company with several Turks and
their slaves, he sailed along the south-eastern coast of the Black Sea,
passed by the mouth of the Phasis, the site of Sebaste, and many other
spots redolent of classical fame, and in three days arrived at Gonia
in the country of the Lazii. Here the character of his valet began to
develop itself. Repairing as soon as they had landed to the custom-house,
leaving his master to manage for himself, the vagabond imparted to
the authorities his conjectures respecting the real condition of the
traveller, and thus at once awakened their vigilance and cupidity. His
effects were in consequence rigorously examined, and the dues exacted
from him, which were heavy, perhaps extortionate, no doubt enabled the
custom-house officers to reward the treachery of his servant. When
these matters had been settled, the principal officer, who, after all,
was a man of humane disposition and tolerably just principles, made
Chardin an offer of an apartment in his house, where he invited, nay,
even entreated him to pass the night; but having already suffered from
what he regarded as his rapacity, the traveller dreaded some new act of
extortion, and obstinately refused his hospitality. He very soon repented
this false step. It being nearly night, he proceeded, on quitting the
custom-house, to the inn, or rather hovel, whither his valet had directed
his effects to be conveyed after examination. Here he was sitting down,
fatigued and dejected, disgusted with dirt and stench, and listening to
the condolences of his Turkish travelling companions, when a janizary
from the lieutenant of the commandant, the chief being absent, entered
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