Their road now lay nearly at the foot of those steep and rugged mountains
which have for many ages been inhabited by the Maronites, several of
whose convents they discerned perched like eagles’ nests on the bare
summit of the crags. A road cut for a considerable distance through the
solid rock, and a track still more rude and wild, worn by the footsteps
of travellers in the side of the mountain, at length brought them to
the river Lycus, or Canis, the _Nahr-el-Kelb_, or “Dog’s River,” of the
Turks and Arabs. Proceeding along a low sandy shore, and crossing the
_Nahr-el-Salib_, they arrived at a small field near the sea, where St.
George, the patron of England, acting over again the fable of Apollo
and Python, fought with and killed that mighty dragon which still shows
its shining scales on the golden coin of Great Britain. A small chapel,
now converted into a mosque, was anciently erected on the spot in
commemoration of the exploit. In the evening they arrived at Beiroot,
where they remained the following day, examining the ruins and present
aspect of the city.
The principal curiosities of Beiroot were the palace and gardens of
Fakreddin, fourth prince of the Druzes, a people of Mount Lebanon, said
to be descended from the fragments of those Christian armies which, after
the final failure of the Crusades, were unable or unwilling to return
to their own countries, and took up their residence in the mountain
fastnesses of the Holy Land. Originally the gardens of Fakreddin must
have been a little paradise. Even when Maundrell was there, after
time and neglect had considerably impaired their beauty, they were
still worthy of admiration. Large and lofty orange-trees of the deepest
verdure, among which the ripe yellow fruit hung thickly suspended like
oblong spheres of gold, shaded the walks; while below small shining
rivulets of the purest water ran rippling along, through channels of hewn
stone, spreading coolness through the air, and distributing themselves
over the gardens by many imperceptible outlets.
On leaving Beiroot they proceeded through a spacious plain, and
traversing a large grove of pine-trees, planted by the Emīr Fakreddin,
arrived in two hours on the banks of the river Dammar, anciently Tamyras,
in which, about four years before, the younger Spon had been drowned in
proceeding northward from Jerusalem. Coming up to the edge of the stream,
they found a number of men, who, observing their approach, had stripped
themselves naked, in order to aid them in passing the stream; but having
previously learned that a bridge which once spanned this river had been
purposely broken down by these officious guides, in order to render their
services necessary, and that, moreover, they sometimes drowned travellers
to obtain their property, they disappointed the ruffians, and ascending
along the stream for some time, at length discovered a ford, and crossed
without their aid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account