At the Awle, a small river about three miles north of Sidon, our
travellers were met by several French merchants from this city, who,
having been informed of their drawing near, had come out to welcome
them. From these friends they learned, however, that the French consul,
who, being also consul of Jerusalem, was compelled by the duties of his
office to visit the Holy City every Easter, had departed from Sidon the
day before; but that as he meant to make some stay at Acra, they might
hope to overtake him there. On this account they again set out early
next morning, and keeping close to the sea, passed by the site of the
ancient Sarepta, crossed the Nahr-el-Kasmin, and in another hour arrived
at Tyre, where, notwithstanding their anxiety to place themselves under
the protection of the French consul, who was travelling with an escort,
they were detained for a moment by the recollection of the ancient glory
of the place.
Having indulged their curiosity for an instant, they again hurried
forward, the phantom of the consul still flitting before them, like the
enchanted bird in the Arabian Nights, and reached Ras-el-Am, or the
“Promontory of the Fountains,” where those famous reservoirs called the
“Cisterns of Solomon” are situated. Our traveller, who had little respect
for traditions, conjectured that these works, however ancient they might
be, could not with propriety be ascribed to the Hebrew king, since the
aqueduct which they were intended to supply was built upon the narrow
isthmus uniting the island to the continent, constructed by Alexander
during the siege of the city; and we may be sure, he observes, that the
aqueduct cannot very well be older than the ground it stands upon.
At Acra they found the consul, who had politely delayed his departure to
the last moment in order to give them time to arrive; and next morning
continued their journey in his company. Crossing the river Belus, on
whose banks glass is said to have been first manufactured, and making
across the plain towards the foot of Carmel, they entered the narrow
valley through which the ancient Kishon, famous for the destruction of
Sisera’s host, rolls its waters towards the sea. After threading for many
hours the mazes of this narrow valley, they issued forth towards evening
upon the plains of Esdraelon sprinkled with Arab flocks and tents, and in
the distance beheld the famous mounts of Tabor and Hermon, and the sacred
site of Nazareth. Here they learned the full force of the Psalmist’s
poetical allusions to the “dews of Hermon,” for in the morning they found
their tents as completely drenched by it as if it had rained all night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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