Paying the customary tribute to the Arabs as they passed, they proceeded
on their way, their eyes resting at every step on some celebrated spot:
Samaria, Sichem, mounts Ebal and Gerizim, places rendered venerable
by the wanderings of prophets and patriarchs, but hallowed in a more
especial manner by the footsteps of Christ. They now began to enter upon
a more rocky and mountainous country, and passing by the spot where Jacob
saw angels ascending and descending, “in the vision of God,” and Beer,
supposed to be the Michmas of the Scriptures, to which Jonathan fled
from the revenge of his brother Abimelech, arrived at the summit of a
hill, whence Rama, anciently Gibeah of Saul, the plain of Jericho, the
mountains of Gilead, and Jerusalem itself were visible in one magnificent
panorama.
Being in the Holy City, which no man, whether believer or unbeliever, can
visit without the most profound emotion, Maundrell enjoyed unrestrainedly
the romantic delight of living where Christ had lived and died, which to
a high-minded religious man must be one of the noblest pleasures which
travelling can afford. They resided, during their stay, at the Latin
convent, visiting the various places which are supposed to possess any
interest for pilgrims; such as the church of the Sepulchre, on Mount
Calvary, the grotto of Jeremiah, the sepulchres of the kings, and the
other famous places within the precincts or in the vicinity of the city.
Four days after their arrival they set out in company with about two
thousand pilgrims of both sexes and of all nations, conducted by the
mosselim, or governor of the city, to visit the river Jordan. Going
out of the city by the gate of St. Stephen, they crossed the valley of
Jehoshaphat, with part of Mount Olivet, passed through Bethany, and
arrived at that mountain wilderness to which Christ was taken forth to
be tempted by the Devil. Here some terrible convulsion of nature appears
to have shattered and rent in pieces the foundations of the everlasting
hills, swallowing up the summits, and thrusting up in their stead the
bases and substructions, as it were, of the mighty masses. In the depths
of a valley which traversed this “land of desolation, waste and wild,”
were discovered the ruins of numerous cottages and hermits’ cells,
many ascetics having formerly retired to this dreary region to waste
away their lives in solitary penance. From the top of this mountain,
however, the travellers enjoyed a prospect of extraordinary diversity,
comprehending the mountains of Arabia, the Dead Sea, and the Plain of
Jericho, into the last of which they descended in about five hours from
the time of their leaving Jerusalem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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