On entering Tibet, indelible traces of the footsteps of war everywhere
smote upon his eye. The whole country had been reduced by the armies of
the khan to a desert; the city, the cheerful village, the gilded and
gay-looking pagoda, the pleasant homestead, and the humble and secluded
cottage, having been overthrown, and their smoking ruins trampled in the
dust, had now been succeeded by interminable forests of swift-growing
bamboos, from between whose thick and knotty stems the lion, the
tiger, and other ferocious animals rushed out suddenly upon the unwary
traveller. Not a soul appeared to cheer the eye, or offer provisions for
money. All around was stillness and utter desolation. And at night, when
they desired to taste a little repose, it was necessary to kindle an
immense fire, and heap upon it large quantities of green reeds, which,
by the crackling and hissing noise which they made in burning, might
frighten away the wild beasts.
This pestilential desert occupied him twenty days in crossing, after
which human dwellings, and other signs of life, appeared. The manners of
the people among whom he now found himself were remarkably obscene and
preposterous. Improving upon the superstitious libertinism of the ancient
Babylonians, who sacrificed the modesty of their wives and daughters in
the temple of Astarte once in their lives, these Tibetians invariably
prostituted their young women to all strangers and travellers who passed
through their country, and made it a point of honour never to marry
a woman until she could exhibit numerous tokens of her incontinence.
Thieving, like want of chastity, was among them no crime; and, although
they had begun to cultivate the earth, they still derived their principal
means of subsistence from the chase. Their clothing was suitable to their
manners, consisting of the skins of wild beasts, or of a kind of coarse
hempen garment, less comfortable, perhaps, and still more uncouth to
sight. Though subject to China, as it is to this day, the paper money,
current through all other parts of the empire, was not in use here; nor
had they any better instrument of exchange than small pieces of coral,
though their mountains abounded with mines of the precious metals, while
gold was rolled down among mud and pebbles through the beds of their
torrents. Necklaces of coral adorned the persons of their women and their
gods, their earthly and heavenly idols being apparently rated at the
same value. In hunting, enormous dogs, nearly the size of asses, were
employed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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