On arriving at Stockholm, Ledyard found that the Gulf of Bothnia was
neither sufficiently frozen to enable him to cross it upon the ice, nor
yet free enough from ice to be navigable. Under these circumstances he
formed the daring resolution of travelling round the gulf, a distance of
twelve hundred miles, “over trackless snows, in regions thinly peopled,
where the nights are long, and the cold intense,—and all this to gain no
more than fifty miles.” Accordingly, he set out for Tornea, in the depth
of winter, on foot, with little money in his pocket, and no friends to
whom he could apply when his small stock should be exhausted. Of this
part of his travels no account remains. Other travellers who have
visited Tornea in winter, under the most favourable circumstances,
describe in tremendous colours the horrors of the place. “The place,”
says Maupertuis, “on our arrival on the 30th of December, had really a
most frightful aspect. Its little houses were buried to the tops in
snow, which, if there had been any daylight, must have effectually shut
it out. But the snow continually falling, or ready to fall, for the most
part hid the sun the few moments that he might have showed himself at
midday. In the month of January the cold was increased to the extremity,
that Reaumur’s mercurial thermometers, which in Paris, in the great
frost of 1709, it was thought strange to see fall to fourteen degrees
below the freezing point, were now down to thirty-seven. The spirit of
wine in the others was frozen. If we opened the door of a warm room, the
external air instantly converted all the air in it into snow, whirling
it round in white vortices. If we went abroad, we felt as if the air
were tearing our breasts to pieces.”
Such was the country through which Ledyard made his way to Petersburg,
which he reached on the 20th of March, that is, within seven weeks from
his leaving Stockholm, making the distance travelled over about two
hundred miles per week upon an average. Here he was well received by
Professor Pallas and other scientific men; and through the interest of
Count Segur, the French ambassador, obtained the empress’s permission to
traverse her vast dominions. As he was compelled to wait several months,
however, for this indispensable document, and was destitute on his
arrival at Petersburg of money, and almost of clothes, he drew a bill of
twenty guineas on Sir Joseph Banks, which he was fortunate enough to get
some one to discount. This enabled him to await the leisure of
Catharine, who was too deeply plunged in her schemes of debauchery and
ambition to afford a thought on a poor houseless wanderer like Ledyard.
But at length the passport was granted; and a Dr. Brown happening at
that moment to be proceeding with a quantity of stores to Yakutsk for
the use of Mr. Billings, who was then employed by the empress in
exploring the remoter parts of Siberia and Kamtschatka, our traveller
obtained permission to accompany him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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