They left Petersburg on the 1st of June, and in six days arrived at
Moscow. Here they hired a kibitka, and proceeded at the same rapid rate
towards Kazan, on the Volga, where they remained a week; and then set
off on the full gallop for Tobolsk. It should be remarked, that
Ledyard’s object in this journey was not to see the country, but to
reach the north-west coast of America, where he hoped to make some
useful discoveries, as quickly as possible; otherwise it would have been
far wiser to have “made his legs his compasses,” at the risk of
consuming years in the journey. In the vast plain which stretches from
Moscow to the Ural Mountains there was, it is true, very little of the
picturesque, and not much of the moral, to captivate the eye or interest
the mind of a traveller; but there is no country the careful examination
of which may not be made to yield both amusement and instruction.
Ledyard, however, was not answerable for the rapidity of his movements;
he accounted himself but too happy in being allowed to share Dr. Brown’s
kibitka; and had it been in the empress’s power to have darted him
across Siberia upon an iceberg, or astride upon a cloud, he would not
have objected to the conveyance.
From Tobolsk they proceeded to Bernaoul, the capital of the province of
Kolyvan, where Dr. Brown’s journey terminated. At this place Ledyard
remained a whole week, and was entertained in a very hospitable manner
by the treasurer of the mines. He observes, that the immense plain he
had traversed in reaching this city was in many places dotted with large
mounds of earth, which very much resembled those supposed monumental
piles found among various tribes of North America, and the barrows or
heroic tombs of ancient Europe. In the people the Tartar features began
to appear before they reached Kazan. But there existed great variety in
the population; the same village containing every variety of mankind,
from those with fair skin, light hair, and white eyes, to those of olive
complexion, and jet-black eyes and hair. Poverty, as may be supposed,
was no stranger in these villages; for they had not, like the Chremylus
of Aristophanes, discovered the secret of restoring sight to Plutus; but
this did not discourage the fair moieties of the peasants from painting
their faces, like a discontented English beauty, both with red and
white. As these damsels are not niggardly of their kisses, it would be
useless for them to adopt the custom which prevailed among the ancient
Greek ladies, of painting the lips; but this, it would seem, is the sole
consideration which opposes the introduction of the custom. “The Tartar,
however situated,” says Ledyard, “is a voluptuary; and it is an original
and striking trait in their character, from the grand seignior to him
who pitches his tent on the wild frontiers of Russia and China, that
they are more addicted to real sensual pleasure than any other people.”
This is a judicious remark, and corroborates the testimony of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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