In this style they proceeded to Erzeroom, where they arrived on the 15th
of June. Winter had not yet relinquished his dominion over the land,
for, notwithstanding that the sun was exceedingly hot during the greater
part of the day, the hills in the neighbourhood were covered with snow,
large showers of which had recently fallen. The cold, as might be
expected, is very rigorous here during the winter months, so that
several persons have been known to have lost their hands and feet from
the effects of it; and although coal might probably be easily obtained,
the inhabitants suffer the more severely, inasmuch as wood, the only
fuel used, is extremely scarce and dear. These inconveniences are
equally felt by natives and foreigners; but our traveller encountered
another misfortune, which, in all probability, was confined to himself
and his companions. This affliction, which he laments like a hero, was
caused by the absence of good wines and brandies, a deprivation which
appears to have weighed far more heavily on his heart than the absence
of houries.
From this city he made several excursions into the mountains of Armenia,
which generally continue to be covered with snow until August; and
having discovered a monastery, the monks of which possessed some
excellent wine, his spirits revived, and he began to view the country
with a less gloomy eye. Near this city are the sources of the Euphrates,
springs remarkable for their extreme coldness, and, to be rendered fit
for drinking, requiring perhaps a mixture of that nectar which our
traveller obtained from the monks of Erzeroom. To add to this enjoyment,
some very fine trouts were caught in the stream of the Euphrates, and
being cooked immediately upon the spot, and eaten with a good appetite,
were found to be particularly excellent. However, all these pleasures
were not purchased without some expense of fear, for they were now in
the country of the Koords and Yezeedis, who, roaming about the plains in
dauntless independence, regardless of pashas and eager for plunder,
would have been but too happy to have lightened the burdens of the Frank
adventurers.
From Erzeroom, the environs of which afford a rich treasure to the
botanist, they proceeded with a caravan for Teflis, the capital of
Georgia. The country upon which they now entered was flat and well
cultivated, artificial irrigation being required, however, to maintain
fertility, without which the corn would be roasted upon the stock. In
the islands of the Archipelago, on the other hand, where the heats, he
observes, are sufficient to calcine the earth, and where it rains only
in winter, the corn is the finest in the world. This renders it clear
that all kinds of soil do not possess the same nourishing juice. The
soil of the Archipelago, like the camel, imbibes sufficient water during
the winter to serve it for a long time to come; but that of Armenia
requires to be constantly refreshed by showers or by irrigation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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