In this desolate and deserted spot, where the elements array themselves
in properties so hostile to life, our traveller found a Mohammedan
fakeer, who had taken up his lonely residence at the gate of the fort.
He was meager, wan, and nearly consumed by the effects of fever and
ague; but when he was advised to leave so melancholy a situation, and go
to some other place where he might recover his health, he replied, that
he preferred an existence where he was, though under a load of misery,
to the chance of starving in districts where he should be wholly
unknown.
The view from the fort of Bijjighur, where he arrived next day, is
highly diversified and magnificent; but when you throw the eye on the
deep and rugged precipice beneath, the prospect is infinitely grand,
though not divested of that horror which naturally affects the mind when
contemplating objects from so abrupt a height. The rising and setting
sun here exhibits a magnificent scene, and excites a train of ideas
strongly impressed with a grateful admiration of the First Cause of
nature. The view of the setting sun takes in the river Saone, which is
seen winding its stream, brightened by the rays of the western light,
through a long tract of diversified country. A fort also appears on the
side of a distant hill, which is only brought out in the evening
prospect.
Returning from thence to Benares, he assumed for his greater safety the
name of a Georgian, and on the 12th of December set out for Allahabad.
On this road, and indeed on almost every other in India, the traveller
seldom fails meeting with a public lodging or a reservoir of water,
where he may perform his ablutions and quench his thirst. In every
respectable village there is a caravansary, of which the stationary
tenants are frequently women, some of whom are very pretty. These
approach the traveller on his entrance, and in alluring language
describe the various excellences of their several lodgings; and when the
choice is made, which, says Forster, is often perplexing, so many are
the inducements thrown out on all sides, a bed is laid out for his
repose, a smoking-pipe is brought, and the utensils are cleansed for
preparing his repast.
From Allahabad he went on to Lucknow, the capital of the kingdom of
Oude, a large but irregular and filthy city, which contains little
worthy the notice of a traveller. Here he remained some time, however,
and then proceeded through the Delhi province to Rampoor, near the foot
of the Kemaoon hills. On setting out from this town he enjoyed a
complete view of the Himalaya mountains, covered with eternal snows, and
forming the boundary between Hindostan and Tibet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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