On arriving at Najebabad, a town built by Najeb ud Dowlah to facilitate
the commerce of Kashmere, he found that the only caravansary in the
place was occupied, and thought himself fortunate in being admitted into
a cook’s shop, where kabobs and beefsteaks were dressed in savoury taste
for the public. A better place for observing the manners of the people
he could scarcely have chosen. It was what a coffee-house is in London,
the resort of all the newsmongers, idlers, politicians, and disbanded
soldiers of the district. Here, while he was eating his dinner, he saw a
boy enter, who inquired whether there were any travellers going to
Kashmere or Jummoo, as the kafilah would depart next day. Upon inquiry,
he found that this kafilah consisted of about one hundred mules laden
with raw silk, cotton cloths, and ordinary calicoes for the Jummoo
markets. By a banker, to whom he had been furnished with a letter, he
was introduced to the merchants of the kafilah, who readily received him
into their company. He now dropped the character of a Georgian, and
represented himself as a Turkish merchant going into Kashmere to
purchase shawls. To accompany him in this journey he hired a Kashmerian
servant, “a fellow of infinite jest,” whose memory was stored with a
thousand stories, every one of which he embellished in the telling of
it. He was otherwise an active and excellent servant.
With this kafilah he left Najebabad on the 14th of February, 1783, and
on the 15th arrived at Lolldong, where the province of Delhi is
separated from that of Serinagur, or Gurwal, by a small rivulet. On the
north of this rivulet the kafilah now encamped, and each of its members
was soon busily engaged in preparing for their journey through the
forest, which it was computed would occupy three days. The extreme heat
of the weather rendering a tent or some substitute for one absolutely
necessary, Forster purchased a large black kummul or blanket, which,
being slantingly extended over a slight bamboo frame, composed of a
ridge-pole upheld by two supporters, and fastened below by small pins,
formed a commodious and portable lodging. His baggage, consisting of a
thin mattress, a quilt, a canvass portmanteau containing a few changes
of linen, which served for a pillow, together with the kummul, was
stowed behind him upon his horse. The Kashmerian followed on foot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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