Fearful lest the khan should alter his determination, and transform him,
whether he would or not, into a trooper, he took into his service a
Persian boy, hired a horse of a native of Peshawer, who was returning to
that city, and on the 11th of June set out from Kashmere. His evil
genius, in the form of vanity, had suggested to him the propriety of
adorning his person with a gaudy red coat, in the pocket of which he
deposited his passport. This showy garment, which no doubt excited the
envy of many an Afghan beau, on the second day of his journey was
snatched by a thief from his bed just as he was awaking, who, in spite
of every obstacle, succeeded in bearing off his plunder. Not having
passed the frontiers, he began to apprehend that a return to the capital
might be necessary; but found, upon trial, that his Indian gold was
considered every whit as good as Azad Khan’s written permission.
The scenery through which his road now lay was of a magnificent
description, mountainous, rocky, savage, gloomy; forests below, snowy
pinnacles above, with here and there a torrent bursting and dashing
through rocky chasms with the noise of thunder. The path, impassable to
horses, which were sent by another route, wound round the projections of
the mountains, and sometimes consisted of a floor of planks laid over
beams which were driven into the cliff. The rivers were crossed in
baskets slung upon ropes, or on sheep’s or dogs’ skins inflated, and
placed under the breast, while the traveller impelled himself forward by
the motion of his feet. In other places a sort of bridge was formed in
the following manner:—A stout rope, fastened to wooden posts on either
shore sustained a number of carved pieces of wood resembling oxen-yokes,
with forks placed vertically. The sides of these yokes being embraced by
smaller ropes afforded a hold to the passengers.
On the 10th of July they crossed the Indus, about twenty miles above the
town of Attock. “The stream,” says Forster, “though not agitated by
wind, was rapid, with a rough undulating motion, and about
three-quarters of a mile or a mile in breadth where it was not
interrupted by islands, and having, as nearly as I could judge, a
west-and-by-south course. The water was much discoloured by a fine black
sand, which, when put into a vessel, quickly subsided. It was so cold
from, I apprehend, a large mixture of snow then thawed by the summer
heats, that in drinking it my teeth suffered a violent pain. In our boat
were embarked seventy persons, with much merchandise and some horses.
This unwieldy lading, the high swell of the current, and the confusion
of the frightened passengers made the passage dangerous and very
tedious.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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