fifteen miles in circumference, an extent not at all answerable to the
idea which the ancients have left us of its greatness. It seems
probable, therefore, that our traveller’s survey was hastily and
imperfectly performed.
Quitting these renowned ruins, he proceeded towards Tunis, coasting
along the lake, formerly a deep and extensive port, which stretches out
before the capital, and communicates by a narrow channel with the sea.
The water in this large basin nowhere exceeds seven feet in depth, while
the bottom for nearly a mile round the whole sweep of the shore is
generally dry and noisome, the common sewers of Tunis discharging
themselves into this great receptacle. At a distance, however, the
prospect of the lake is not without beauty, its surface being frequently
enlivened by large flocks of the flamingo, or phœnicopterus, the bird to
which the Hindoo legislator compares a beautiful young woman. It is
likewise celebrated for the number and size of its mullets, which are
reckoned the sweetest in Barbary, and the roes of which, when pressed,
dried, and salted, are called _botargo_, and considered a great
delicacy.
The city of Tunis, situated upon an acclivity on the western shore of
the lake, and commanding a fine view of the ruins of Carthage, and of
the circumambient sea, as Livy expresses it, as far as the island
Ægimurus, the modern Zembra, being surrounded by lakes and marshes,
would be exceedingly insalubrious were not the effects of the miasmata
in a great measure counteracted by the vast quantities of mastic,
myrtle, rosemary, and other gummy and aromatic plants which grow in the
neighbourhood, and being used as firewood to warm their baths and ovens,
communicate a sensible fragrance to the air. Tunis, however, is
absolutely destitute of water, having, as Leo Africanus observes,
neither rivulet, fountain, nor well; and the inhabitants are
consequently reduced to rely upon what they can catch in cisterns when
it rains, or upon what is brought into the city from a brackish well in
the vicinity in leathern bags, and sold about the streets as a precious
article of traffic. The Tunisians, our traveller observes, are the most
civilized people of Barbary, agreeable in their intercourse with
strangers, and coveting rather than shunning, like other Mohammedans,
all occasions of coming into contact with Christians. The population of
the city at this period was said to exceed three hundred thousand; no
doubt an extravagant exaggeration, as the circumference of the place did
not much exceed three miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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