From Candia he proceeded to Scio, Ipsara, Metelin, Tenedos, Lemnos,
Samos, and Patmos, and then passed over to the continent to Smyrna. Here
those traces of antiquity which formed the principal objects of his
inquiries surrounded him on all sides. Not an excursion could be made
without encountering the ruins or the site of some city renowned in
poetry or history. Every river, every stream had some glorious
association attached to it, from the Meles, on which Homer is sometimes
supposed to have been born, to the Cayster and Mæander, celebrated in
his poems. Pococke, it should be remarked, with all his admiration for
antiquity, had not suffered much of the spirit of Greek poetry to
penetrate into his soul; though he might as a man of the world avoid
alluding to trite and hackneyed fables, this will not in all cases
account for his omitting all mention of remarkable mythi. When encamped,
for example, at night round a large fire on the summit of Mount Latmus
in Caria, fearing an irruption of jackals and wild boars, he seems to
have thrown himself to sleep upon his huge block of granite without once
recalling to mind that it was on that wild spot Endymion was visited
nightly by the moon. He observes, however, that the shepherds who have
succeeded Endymion on this mountain have begun to cultivate a portion of
its summit, and to enclose their fields with large trunks of trees
disposed as pallisades.
Following up the course of the Mæander he entered the Greater Phrygia,
proceeded thence to Galatia, and, turning to the north, took the road
through the ancient Paphlagonia and Bithynia towards Constantinople.
Here he entered into numerous inquiries respecting the religion and
manners of the Turks; and then, descending the Dardanelles, embarked at
Lemnos for Mount Athos in Macedonia. This mountain, it is well known,
has for ages served as a retreat to numerous monks and hermits, who
retire thither from the world to conceal their chagrin at being shut out
by more fortunate or more persevering individuals from the participation
of its more refined pleasures. There were at this period about forty
hermitages situated in a semicircular sweep of the mountain. Some of the
gloomy tenants of these cells were poor persons, who subsisted by their
own labour, or on the bread and cheese bestowed upon them by the
convents in the neighbourhood; and their amusement consisted in carving
images or making wooden spoons. Pococke found them employed in drying
figs, walnuts, and grapes, and learned that they made a little wine and
brandy for their own use, which, I hope, occasionally enabled them to
forget their cares. To complete their misery, no women were ever
permitted to enter their territories.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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