imagined must have been equally disagreeable to the travellers as it
would have been to him. He therefore not only expelled them from the
house, but, in order to protect the imam’s guests from a repetition
of the same intrusion, gave peremptory orders to their Mohammedan
attendant to admit no person whatever until they should have obtained
their audience.
Two days after their arrival they were admitted into the presence of
the imam. It is probable that, having previously formed an exalted
idea of the splendour of oriental princes, the reader will be liable
to disappointment on the present occasion. The riches and magnificence
of the califs, however, of which we find so many glowing descriptions
in the Thousand and One Nights, in D’Herbelot, and many other writers,
have long passed away, leaving to the successors of those religious
monarchs nothing but remembrance of ancient glory, which gleams like a
meteoric light about their throne and diadem. Niebuhr, arriving at Sana
from the sandy deserts of the Tehama, where poverty reigns paramount
over every thing, enjoyed the advantage of possessing an imagination
sobered by stern realities. His fancy depicted the court of the imam in
the livery of the desert. He expected little. If he was disappointed,
therefore, it was not disagreeably.
The imam, with a vanity pardonable enough in a prince who learns from
his cradle to estimate his own greatness by the pomp and glitter
which surround him, had in fact employed the two days elapsed since
the arrival of his guests in active preparations for their reception;
and the rules of etiquette forbidding strangers to pay or receive
visits during the interval, were originally intended to conceal this
circumstance, and create the belief that the holyday appearance of
the court was its ordinary costume. Our travellers were conducted to
the palace by the minister’s secretary, who here performed what is
called the mehmandar’s office in Persia. They found the great court
of the edifice thronged with horses, officers, and other Arabs of
various grades; so that it required the ministry of the imam’s grand
equerry to open them a way through the crowd. The hall of audience was
a spacious square apartment, vaulted above, and having on its centre
several fountains of water, which, gushing aloft to a considerable
height, and falling again incessantly, maintained a refreshing coolness
in the air. A broad divan, adorned with fine Persian carpets, occupied
the extremity of the hall, and flanked the throne, which was merely
covered with silken stuffs, and rich cushions. Here the imam sat
cross-legged, according to the custom of the East. He received the
travellers graciously, allowed them to kiss the hem of his garment, and
the back and palm of his hand--an honour which is but sparingly granted
to strangers. At the conclusion of this ceremony a herald cried aloud,
“God save the imam!” and all the people repeated the same words. As
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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