On the 17th of July, 1763, they arrived in the environs of Sana, and
sent forward a servant with a letter, announcing their arrival to the
chief minister of the imam. This statesman, however, who had previously
received tidings of their approach, and was desirous of receiving
them with true Arab politeness, had already despatched one of his
secretaries to meet them at the distance of half a league from the
city. This gentleman informed them that they had been long expected
at Sana, and that, in order to render their stay agreeable, the imam
had assigned them a country-house at _Bir el Assab_. While they were
conversing with the secretary, and secretly congratulating themselves
on their good fortune, they arrived at the entrance into their garden,
where the Arab desired them to alight. They of course obeyed, but soon
discovered that their guide had played them a trick in the manner of
the people of Cairo, for he remained on his ass during the rest of
the way, which was considerable, enjoying the pleasure of beholding a
number of Franks toiling along on foot beside his beast. This put them
out of humour, and their spleen was increased when, on arriving at
their villa, they found that, however elegant or agreeable it might be,
it did not contain a single article of furniture, or a person who would
provide them even with bread and water.
Next day, however, they received from the imam a present of five sheep,
three camel-loads of wood, a large quantity of wax-tapers, rice, and
spices. At the same time they were informed that two days at least
would elapse before they could obtain an audience, a matter about which
they were indifferent; but that they could not in the mean time quit
their house. Though considerably chagrined at the latter circumstance,
they hoped in some measure to neutralize its effects, by receiving
the visits of such natives as curiosity, or any other motive, might
allure to the house; and accordingly were very much gratified at the
appearance of a Jew, who had performed in their company the journey
from Cairo to Loheia. This young Israelite, delighted to spend a
few moments in the company of persons who received him without any
demonstrations of contempt, appeared to experience a gratification in
obliging them; and came on the second day accompanied by one of the
most celebrated astrologers of his sect, from whom Niebuhr learned the
Hebrew appellations of several stars. While he was yet conversing with
this learned descendant of Abraham, the secretary of the imam arrived.
They were ignorant of the etiquette of the court of Sana, according to
which they should have abstained from receiving as well as from paying
visits; but the secretary, whose business it was to have instructed
them on these points, doubly enraged by their infraction of the rules
of decorum, and by a sense of his own negligence, directed all the
violence of his fury against the unfortunate Jews, whose society he
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