After the death of his companions, Niebuhr had applied to the Danish
government for permission to extend his journey in the East, and,
through the benevolence of Count Bernstorf, his wishes had been readily
complied with. He therefore passed from Syria into Cyprus, for the
purpose of copying certain Phenician inscriptions at Cittium, the
birth-place of Zeno, which had, it was suspected, been incorrectly
copied by Pococke. Finding no inscriptions of the kind on the spot to
which he had been directed, he, with an illiberality which was not
common with him, imputed to Pococke the gross absurdity of having
confounded Armenian with Phenician characters; but, as his recent
biographer remarks, it is more probable that the stones had, in the
interval, been removed.
From Cyprus he passed over into Palestine, visited Jerusalem, Sidon,
Mount Lebanon, and Damascus, and then returned to Aleppo. Here he
continued until the 20th of November, 1766, when he set out with a
caravan for Brusa, in Asia Minor; and in traversing the table-land
of Mount Taurus, suffered, says one of his biographers, as much from
frosts, piercing winds, and snow-drifts, as he could have done in a
winter journey in northern regions. Lofty mountains are everywhere
cold. Chardin nearly perished among the snows of Mount Caucasus; Don
Ulloa suffered severely from the same cause in the Andes, almost
directly under the equator; and the lofty range of the Himalaya, which
divides Hindostan from Tibet, is so excessively cold, that Baber Khan,
though a soldier and a Tartar, beheld with terror the obstacle which
these mountains presented to his ambition; and their summits have
hitherto been protected by cold from human intrusion. Upon reaching
Brusa, however, he reposed himself for some time, and then set out for
Constantinople, where he arrived on the 20th of February, 1767.
Here he remained three or four months, studying the institutions of
the empire, civil and military. He then directed his course through
Roumelia, Bulgaria, Wallachia, and Moldavia, towards Poland, and on
arriving at Warsaw was received with extraordinary politeness by King
Stanislaus Poniatowsky, with whom he afterward corresponded for many
years. From Warsaw he continued his journey towards Copenhagen, and
visited on the way Göttingen and his beloved native place, when the
death of his mother’s brother, during his absence, had left him in
possession of a considerable marsh-farm. He arrived at Copenhagen in
November, and was received in the most flattering manner by the court,
the ministers, and men of science.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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