In pursuance of the plan which he had traced out for himself previous
to leaving France, he examined with scrupulous care all the fragments
and ruins within the scope of his researches. After touching on the
southern coast of the Morea, and sketching the castle of Coron, with
various Albanian soldiers whom he met with on the shore, he proceeded
to the isles,--Milo, Siphanto, Naxia, Delos, where the wrecks of
antiquity and the grotesque costume and manners of modern times
exercised his elegant pencil and pen. Those persons who have visited
countries where the ruins of former ages eclipse, as it were, the
stunted heirs of the soil, will comprehend the difficulty of attending,
amid monuments rendered doubly sublime by decay, to the rude attempts
at architecture and the undignified circumstances which mark the
existence of a population relapsed into ignorance. To these, however,
Choiseul-Gouffier was by no means inattentive. He sketched, and it
would seem with equal complacency, the ruins of some venerable temple
and the beautiful dark-eyed girl of the Ionian Islands, plaiting her
tresses, or sporting with her fat, long-haired Angola.
In sketching the life of this traveller, I must beware that I am not
carried away by classical recollections. Here, where
Not a mountain rears its head unsung,
it might, perhaps, be pleasing to a certain variety of minds to
expatiate at leisure over the immortal fields of fable, and the scenes
of actions which man is still proud to have performed; and if I abstain
from entering upon the subject, it is not from any indifference
to its charms, or that I want faith in its powers to produce, if
properly handled, the same effect upon others which it has long
exercised over me. But this is not the place to indulge in themes of
this kind. Biography rejects all pictures of such a description, and
requires narrative; and accordingly I proceed with the history of our
traveller’s labours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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