Burckhardt reached the coast of Syria at that point where the Aasi,
the ancient Orontis, falls into the sea; and immediately prepared
to depart for Aleppo with a caravan. Having been intrusted with
several chests for the British consul at Aleppo, his baggage appeared
considerable; and he was consequently sent for by the aga, who expected
a handsome present for permitting them to pass. When questioned by this
officer respecting the contents of the chests, he replied that he was
entirely ignorant of the matter, but suspected that among other things
there was a sort of French drink, called _beer_, with various kinds of
eatables. The aga now sent an officer to examine them. A bottle of beer
having been broken in loading, “the man tasted it by putting his finger
into the liquor, and found it abominably bitter: such was his report to
the aga. As a sample of the eatables, he produced a potato which he had
taken out of one of the barrels, and that noble root excited general
laughter in the room: ‘It is well worth while,’ they said, ‘to send
such stuff to such a distance.’ The aga tasted of the raw potato, and
spitting it out again, swore at the Frank’s stomach which could bear
such food.” The mean opinion which these specimens inspired them with
for such merchandise inclined the aga to be content with the trifling
sum of ten piastres, which he probably thought more than the value of a
whole ship’s cargo of potatoes and beer.
Upon the arrival of the caravan at Antakia, our traveller, desirous of
studying the manners of all ranks of men, took up his quarters in the
khan of the muleteers, where, from a suspicion that he was a Frank in
disguise, he was subjected to numerous indignities. The aga’s dragoman,
some wretched Frenchman or Piedmontese, being sent by his master to
discover the truth, and failing to effect his purpose by any other
means, determined, as a last resource, on pulling him by the beard, and
at the same time asked him familiarly why he had suffered such a thing
to grow? To this Burckhardt replied by striking him on the face, which
turned the laugh against the poor dragoman, and was an argument so
peculiarly Mohammedan that it seems to have convinced the bystanders of
the truth of his assertions.
After a delay of four days he continued his journey with the caravan,
with the motley members of which he was compelled to maintain an
unceasing struggle in defence of his assumed character; a circumstance
which proves one of two things, either that the Saonees of the west
have by intercourse with Europeans been rendered more acute in
discovering impostors, than the Shiahs of Afghanistan and Northern
Persia, or that Burckhardt was hitherto somewhat unskilful in his
movements; for the reader will no doubt remember that Forster, when he
professed Mohammedanism, had much fewer suspicions to combat on his way
through Central Asia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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