Having to a certain extent satisfied his curiosity respecting this
obscure country, he returned by way of Homs and Hamah towards Aleppo,
where he arrived on the New-year’s day of 1811. He now meditated an
excursion into the desert towards the Euphrates, but was for some time
prevented from putting his design in execution by the troubled state
of the country, two powerful Arab tribes, the one inimical, the other
friendly to the Aleppines, having been for many months at war with each
other. Burckhardt at length succeeded, however, in placing himself
under the protection of the Sheïkh of Sukhne, and set out towards the
desert: but his own account of this journey was lost, and all that can
now be known of it is to be gathered from a letter from Mr. Barker,
the celebrated British consul at Aleppo, to whose princely hospitality
so many travellers of all nations have been indebted. “One hundred and
twenty, or one hundred and fifty miles below the ruins of Membigeh, in
the Zor,” says this gentleman, “there is a tract on the banks of the
Euphrates possessed by a tribe of very savage Arabs. Not far from them
is the village of Sukhne, at the distance of five days from Aleppo, and
of twelve hours from Palmyra, in the road which Zenobia in her flight
took to gain the Euphrates. The people of Sukhne are sedentary Arabs,
of a breed half Fellah and half Bedouin. They bring to Aleppo alkali
and ostrich feathers. It was upon one of these visits of the Sheïkh of
Sukhne to Aleppo, that Burckhardt, after some negotiation, resolved to
accept the protection of the sheïkh, who undertook, upon their arrival
at his village, to place him under the protection of a Bedouin of
sufficient influence to procure him a safe passage through the tribes
of the country which he wished to explore. Burckhardt had reason to be
satisfied both with the Sheïkh of Sukhne, and with the Arab whom he
procured as an escort, except that, in the end, the protection of the
latter proved insufficient. The consequence was, that poor Burckhardt
was stripped to the skin, and he returned to Sukhne, his body blistered
with the rays of the sun, and without having accomplished any of the
objects of his journey. It was in this excursion to the desert that
Burckhardt had so hard a struggle with an Arab lady, who took a fancy
to the only garment which the delicacy or compassion of the men had
left him.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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