In this valley, about two long days’ journey north-east of Akaba, is a
small rivulet, near the banks of which Burckhardt discovered the ruins
of a city, which he conjectured to be those of Petra, the capital of
Arabia Petræa. No other European traveller had ever visited the spot,
though few places in Western Asia seem more curious or deserving of
examination. The red rocks composing the flanks of the valley contained
upwards of two hundred and fifty sepulchral chambers, adorned with
Grecian ornaments. Besides these there were numerous mausolea, some in
the Egyptian style, with obelisks, others in the chaste manner of the
Greeks; and among the latter there was one in perfect preservation,
and of vast dimensions, with all its apartments, its vestibule, its
peristyle, &c. cut out in the solid rock. On the summit of the mountain
which forms the western boundary of the valley is the tomb of Aaron,
which the Arabs, who are great Scriptural antiquarians, hold in
extraordinary veneration. Our traveller, however, to his great regret,
was necessitated to abandon to some more fortunate visiter the thorough
examination of this interesting region, at which circumstances allowed
him merely to cast a glance as he was hurrying along with his Bedouin
conductor towards the Red Sea. In proceeding from this place towards
Akaba he encountered a small party of Arabs who were conducting a few
camels for sale to Cairo, and uniting himself to this little caravan,
performed the remainder of the journey in their company. “We crossed
the valley of Araba,” says he, “ascended on the other side of it the
barren mountains of Beyane, and entered the desert called El Tih,
which is the most barren and horrid tract of country I have ever seen;
black flints cover the chalky or sandy ground, which in most places is
without any vegetation. The tree which produces the gum-arabic grows
in some spots; and the tamarisk is met with here and there; but the
scarcity of water forbids much extent of vegetation, and the hungry
camels are obliged to go in the evening for whole hours out of the road
in order to find some withered shrubs upon which to feed. During ten
days’ forced marches we passed only four springs or wells, of which one
only, at about eight hours east of Suez, was of sweet water. The others
were brackish and sulphureous. We passed at a short distance to the
north of Suez, and arrived at Cairo by the pilgrim road.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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