On his arrival at Cairo, Burckhardt’s first employment was to draw up a
detailed account of his journey through Arabia Petræa: he then turned
his attention to the means of fulfilling the great design of his
mission; but no opportunity of penetrating into the interior of Africa
occurring, he undertook, in order to fill up the interval thus created,
a journey into Nubia. During his residence at Cairo, and on his journey
up the Nile to Assouan, he beheld the principal ruins of Egypt. His
preparations for the Nubian excursion were soon made. He purchased two
dromedaries, one for himself and the other for his guide, for about
twenty-two pounds; provided himself with letters of recommendation,
and a firman from the pasha; and leaving his servant and baggage at
Assouan, set out with his guide on the 14th of February, 1813, carrying
along with him nothing but a gun, a sabre, a pistol, a provision-bag,
and a woollen mantle, which served by day for a carpet, and for a
covering during the night.
Their road lay along the eastern bank of the Nile; they passed Philæ
(where, a few days before, a pregnant woman had been killed in a fray,
as the softer sex always mix in the battles in which their husbands are
engaged, which had created a deadly feud between the hostile villages);
and then pushed on with rapidity towards Derr. The Mameluke chiefs,
with their desperate followers, were at this period roaming about
Nubia, amusing their imaginations with vain projects for the recovery
of Egypt.--Every person coming from the north was of course an object
of curiosity, if not of suspicion, to these baffled soldiers, as it
was possible he might be the bearer of tidings of events upon the
results of which their fate depended. Such was the state of things when
Burckhardt entered Nubia. Everywhere reports calculated to create alarm
were circulated. To-day it was said that the Mamelukes had descended,
like famished tigers, from the mountains, and were about to deliver up
the whole country to plunder and devastation; to-morrow they appeared
to have passed away, like a thunder-cloud, towards Dongola and the
desert, leaving behind them that sort of uneasy satisfaction with which
we behold the quelling of unruly elements.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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