Burckhardt now descended the Nile to Ipsambol, the vast rocky temple
of which he supposed to be of extremely ancient date. He here found
four colossal statues of enormous magnitude, which had been hewn
out of the rock, on the face of an elevated cliff, with their backs
adhering to the precipice. The fine sand of the desert had been blown
up into mounds against the rock, and covered two of these statues
almost entirely; the rest rose somewhat above the surface. The faces
of these colossal statues are turned towards the north. “The head,
which is above the surface,” says he, “has a most expressive youthful
countenance, approaching nearer to the Grecian model of beauty than
that of any ancient Egyptian figure I have seen; indeed, were it not
for a thin, oblong beard, it might well pass for a head of Pallas.”
From Ipsambol he continued his journey to Mosmos and Derr, where he
parted with his guide, who, on taking his leave, begged as a present
the mellaye, or cloak, which our traveller usually wore. To this
request Burckhardt replied, “May God smooth your path!”--a phrase
usually addressed to beggars, when they are civilly told to be gone.
“No,” said the Arab, who had often employed this phrase when he desired
to elude the questions of the traveller, “for once I will beg you to
smooth it.” “So,” says Burckhardt, “I gave him the mellaye, and a small
present in money; and am confident that Abou Saad will never forget me.”
On his return to Assouan, Burckhardt’s first care was to repair, by
repose, the inroads which fatigue had made upon his constitution. He
then repaired to Esne, where he established his head-quarters. It being
his policy to excite but little attention, he very seldom went into
company, dressed meanly, and reduced his expenditure to the lowest
possible sum. The cheapness of provisions was incredible. His whole
expenditure for himself, his servant, his dromedary, and his ass not
exceeding one shilling and sixpence per day, while his horse cost him
no more than sixteen pence per month.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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