wavings of the ihrams, the side of the mountain, thickly crowded as
it was by the people in their white garments, had the appearance of
a cataract of water; while the green umbrellas, with which several
thousand hajjîs, sitting on their camels below, were provided, bore
some resemblance to a verdant plain.”
Burckhardt was present at all the remaining ceremonies of the Hadj,
which I shall not now pause to describe; and after observing whatever
was worthy of examination both at Mecca and Jidda, he joined a small
caravan of pilgrims who were going to visit the tomb of the prophet,
and set out for Medina on the 15th of January, 1815. During this
journey he imprudently advanced before the caravan, and was attacked
by five Bedouins, from whom he was quickly delivered, however, by the
approach of his companions. They reached Medina on the 28th of January.
The ceremonies practised in this city were much less tedious than at
Mecca, and did not occupy our traveller more than a quarter of an hour.
Here, shortly after his arrival, he was attacked by an intermittent
fever, accompanied by extraordinary despondency. His condition, indeed,
was well calculated to inspire gloomy thoughts; for he had no society,
and but one book, which was, however, as he observes, worth a whole
shelf full of others. This was a pocket edition of Milton, which he had
borrowed from an English ship at Jidda.
Medina, it is well known, is chiefly indebted to the tomb of Mohammed
for its celebrity. This mausoleum, which stands on the south-eastern
corner of the principal mosque, is protected from the too near approach
of visiters by an iron railing, painted green, about two-thirds the
height of the pillars of the colonnade which runs round the interior
of the mosque. “The railing is of good workmanship, in imitation
of filligree, and is interwoven with open-worked inscriptions of
yellow bronze, supposed by the vulgar to be of gold, and of so close
a texture, that no view can be obtained of the interior except by
several small windows about six inches square, which are placed in
the four sides of the railing, about five feet above the ground.” On
the south side, where are the two principal windows, before which
the devout stand when praying, the railing is plated with silver,
and the common inscription--“There is no God but God, the Evident
Truth”--is wrought in silver letters round the windows. The tomb
itself, as well as that of Abu Bekr and Omar, which stand close to it,
is concealed from the public gaze by a curtain of rich silk brocade of
various colours, interwoven with silver flowers and arabesques, with
inscriptions in characters of gold running across the midst of it,
like that of the covering of the Kaaba. Behind this curtain, which,
according to the historian of the city, was formerly changed every six
years, and is now renewed by the Porte whenever the old one is decayed,
or when a new sultan ascends the throne, none but the chief eunuchs,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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