the attendants of the mosque, are permitted to enter. This holy
sanctuary once served, as the temple of Delphi did among the Greeks, as
the public treasury of the nation. Here the money, jewels, and other
precious articles of the people of the Hejaz were kept in chests, or
suspended on silken ropes. Among these was a copy of the Koran in Kufic
characters; a brilliant star set in diamonds and pearls, which was
suspended directly over the prophet’s tomb; with all sorts of vessels
set with jewels, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and other ornaments,
sent as presents from all parts of the empire. Most of these articles
were carried away by the Wahabees when they sacked and plundered the
sacred cities.
On the 21st of April, 1815, Burckhardt quitted Medina with a small
caravan bound for Yembo, on the seacoast. His mind was still
exceedingly depressed by the weak state of his body; and his gayety
and animal spirits, with the energy which accompanies them in ardent
minds, having deserted him, the world assumed in his eyes a sombre
aspect, which rendered travelling and every other pleasure insipid.
All he now sighed for was rest. This mental condition seems strongly
to have affected even his opinions. His views both of men and things
became cynical. Vice seemed to have spread like a deluge over the
eastern world, leaving no single spot whereon Virtue might rest the
sole of her foot. “For my own part,” says he, “_a long residence_ among
Turks, Syrians, and Egyptians _justifies me in declaring that they
are wholly deficient in virtue, honour, and justice_; that they have
_little true piety_, and _still less charity or forbearance_; and that
_honesty_ is only to be found in their _paupers or idiots_.” His mind
was certainly labouring under the effects of his Medina fever when he
wrote this passage, and it would therefore be lost labour to analyze or
confute it minutely. That people who are “wholly deficient in virtue,
honour, and justice” should be destitute of honesty, is no more to be
wondered at than that a black camel should not be half-white; but if
“true piety” be, as most moralists will admit, to be numbered among
the virtues, then the orientals are not, as Mr. Burckhardt asserts,
“_wholly_ deficient in virtue,” &c., since he allows that they have
some, though but little, “true piety.” Again, either the majority of
the orientals are rich, or the majority of them are honest; for if the
majority of them are poor, or paupers, then the majority of them are
honest; for honesty, we are told, is only to be found among paupers and
idiots. It would be easy to expose and refute our traveller’s assertion
by the direct testimony of persons still more competent than he to
decide on such points; but his opinion is palpably absurd, like most
others formed by sick or gloomy individuals, since no society could
subsist if formed entirely of vicious members. Had Burckhardt himself
lived to see his works through the press, such passages as the above
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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