would, I am persuaded, have been expunged or modified; for he was much
too judicious deliberately to have hazarded so monstrous an assertion.
Upon his arrival at Yembo, dejected and melancholy, to add to his
despondency, he found the plague raging in the city. The air, night and
day, was filled with the piercing cries of those who had been bereaved
of the objects of their affection; yet, as no vessel was ready to
sail for Egypt, he was constrained to remain during eighteen days in
the midst of the dying and the dead, continually exposed to infection
through the heedlessness and the imprudence of his slave. At length,
however, he procured a passage in an open boat bound for Cosseir, many
of the passengers in which were sick of a disease which appeared to
be the plague, though only two of them died. After remaining twenty
days on board, he was, at his own request, put on shore in the harbour
of Sherin, at the entrance of the Gulf of Akaba, where he agreed with
some Bedouins to transport him and his slave to Tor and Suez. Learning
on the way, however, that the plague was at Suez, he remained at a
village in the vicinity of the former place, where the enjoyment of
tranquillity and a bracing mountain air soon restored his strength,
and enabled him, though still convalescent, to pursue his journey to
Cairo, where he arrived on the 24th of June, after an absence of nearly
two years and a half. As his health was not yet completely recovered,
he undertook a journey into Lower Egypt during the following winter,
which, as he seems to have believed, restored his constitution to its
former tone.
His time was now entirely occupied in writing the journal of his
Nubian and Arabian travels, and in the necessary care of his health,
which, notwithstanding his sanguine expectation to the contrary, was
still in a somewhat equivocal state. In the spring of 1816 the plague
again broke out at Cairo, and our traveller, to avoid the infection,
undertook a journey to Mount Sinai, intending to remain, until the
pestilence should be over, among the Bedouins, who are never visited by
this scourge. During this excursion he traced the course of the eastern
branch of the Red Sea to within sight of Akaba, the ancient Ælanas,
which he was prevented by circumstances from visiting. On his return
to Cairo, he united with Mr. Salt in furnishing Belzoni with money for
transporting the head of Memnon from Gournou to Alexandria. The scheme,
it would seem, originated with Burckhardt and Salt, to whom, therefore,
we are chiefly indebted for the possession of that extraordinary
specimen of ancient art.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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