From Petersburg they proceeded in sledges to Moscow, which, like
most oriental cities, seemed all splendour from a distant view,
but shrunk upon their entering it into a miserable collection of
hovels, interspersed with a few grotesque churches and tawdry
palaces. This place, which is too well known to require me to dwell
much upon its appearance, they quitted to proceed to the Crimea.
Arriving at Taganrog, on the Sea of Azov, Clarke amused himself
with swimming in the Don, the ancient Tanais, between Europe and
Asia, and in thinking of the vast extent of country over which his
good fortune had already carried him, and of the far more glorious
scenes--Palestine--Egypt--Greece--which yet lay in his route. “Do, for
God’s sake imagine,” says he in a letter to a friend, “what I must feel
in the prospect of treading the plains of Troy!--Tears of joy stream
from my eyes while I write.” To a person of such a frame of mind--and
no others should ever leave their firesides--travelling, next to the
performance of virtuous actions, affords the most exquisite pleasure
upon earth. The imagination, impregnated by a classical education with
glowing ideas of what certain scenes once were, invests them with
unearthly splendour, of which no experience can ever afterward divest
them.
Upon their arriving at Achmedshid in the Crimea, they remained some
time in the house of Professor Pallas, who entertained them in so
hospitable a manner that Clarke, who spoke of men as he found them,
could not forbear imparting to his friends at home the warm gratitude
of his heart. “It is with him we now live,” says he, “till the vessel
is ready to sail for Constantinople; and how can I express his kindness
to me? He has all the tenderness of a father to us both. Every thing
in his house he makes our own. He received me worn down with fatigue
and ill of a tertian fever. Mrs. Pallas nursed me, and he cured me, and
then loaded me with all sorts of presents; books, drawings, insects,
plants, minerals, &c. The advantage of conversing with such a man is
worth the whole journey from England, not considering the excellent
qualities of his heart. Here we are in quite an elegant English house;
and if you knew the comfort of lying down in a clean bed after passing
months without taking off your clothes in deserts and among savages,
you would know the comfort we feel. The vessel is at Kosloff, distant
forty miles; and when we leave the Crimea Mr. and Mrs. Pallas and their
daughter, who has been married since we were in the house to a general
officer, go with us to Kosloff; and will dine with us on board the day
we sail. They prepare all our provisions for the voyage.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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