Having made this discovery, he again returned to the valley of the
Nile, where he was for some time occupied in the removal of various
antiquities. He then descended to the seacoast, and on the 20th of
April, 1819, set out from Rosetta, on an excursion to the district
of Fayoum, and the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon. After roaming about the
shores of Lake Mœris for some time, for he had no leisure for making
researches, he visited the ruins of Arconde, consisting of a few
granite columns and fragments and mounds of burnt bricks. He then
prepared to cross the desert to the Oasis, which was an affair of
some difficulty. Nevertheless, he at length succeeded in completing
his preparations, and commenced his journey, accompanied by a Bedouin
guide, and three or four other persons. Even here, in the desert,
ruins of Egyptian edifices, beautifully sculptured with hieroglyphics,
were found. The scene at first lay among low rocks, sandy hills, and
barren valleys, which were gradually exchanged for a plain of sand, as
level as the sea, and thickly strewed with brown and black pebbles.
They continued during five days their journey over this dreary waste,
at the end of which time they perceived the rocks of the Oasis, and
beheld two crows coming, as it were, to meet them. In the afternoon
they entered the valley, which is surrounded by high rocks, and forms
in the midst a spacious plain, about twelve or fourteen miles long,
and about six in breadth. “There is only a very small portion of the
valley cultivated on the opposite side to that which we reached, and it
can only be distinguished by the woods of palm-trees which cover it.
The rest of the valley is wholly covered with tracts of sand, but it
is evidently seen it has once been cultivated everywhere. Many tracts
of land are of a clayey substance, which could be brought into use
even now. There are several small hills scattered about, some with a
natural spring at the top, and covered with rushes and small plants.
We advanced towards a forest of date-trees, and before evening we
reached within a mile of a village named Zaboo, all of us exceedingly
thirsty: here we observed some cultivation, several beds of rice and
some sunt-trees, &c. Before the camels arrived, they scented the water
at a distance; and as they had not drank since they left Rejan, they
set off at full gallop, and did not stop till they reached a rivulet,
which was quite sweet, although the soil was almost impregnated with
salt. I observed here a great many wild birds, particularly wild ducks,
in greater abundance than any other.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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