About midnight the dooty with some of his people opened the gate, and
desired me to come in. They were convinced, they said, I was not a
Moor; for no Moor ever waited any time at the gate of a village without
cursing the inhabitants.”
The history of this journey now becomes nothing more than a repetition
of similar sufferings. Hunger, fatigue, and depression of spirits
attack the traveller by turns. Nothing, however, subdues his courage.
Obstacle after obstacle yields to his persevering intrepidity, and
he pushes forward with invincible ardour towards the coast. In one
place, at the request of a native who had grown opulent by industrious
application to commerce, he wrote charms for a good supper; and,
finding the contrivance productive, continued the practice next day for
small presents of various kinds. On other occasions, where superstition
did not come to his aid, humanity interposed, and snatched him from
starvation. At Bammakoo he was hospitably treated, even by a Moor,
who, having travelled to Rio Grande, had conversed with Christians,
and conceived a favourable idea of their character. The rains had now
increased the Niger to a vast size, and rendered impassable almost
every road; but, as our traveller’s finances had long been exhausted,
he found himself compelled to proceed, the charity of the natives
not extending so far as to the maintaining of a stranger for several
months. The ordinary roads being obstructed by the rains, the only
practicable route, wild, dreary, and desolate, lay over steril rocky
mountains, over which, it was feared, a horse could not pass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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