Niebuhr found a number of Mohammedans at Alexandria who understood
French, Swedish, and Danish as completely as if they had been born
in the countries where those languages are spoken. As most European
travellers proceed up the Nile from this city to Cairo, the members of
the expedition were desirous of performing the journey by land, but
were restrained by fear of the Arabs; and M. Forskaal, who afterward
ventured upon this hardy enterprise, was actually stripped to the
skin, and with great difficulty obtained back his breeches. Niebuhr
now hired a small ship, and embarked on the 31st of October, but was
detained in the Gulf of Aboukir by contrary winds. Impatient of delay,
his companions proceeded thence to Rosetta by land, with a company of
Turks; but our traveller continued his voyage, and reached the city
very shortly after them. Though the inhabitants of Rosetta enjoyed the
reputation of being peculiarly polite towards strangers, Niebuhr was
too impatient to behold the capital of modern Egypt to linger long in
any provincial city; he therefore hastened to ascend the Nile, and
enjoyed the romantic prospect of fertility, villages peeping through
groves of date-trees, and here and there vast wrecks of ancient cities,
which all travellers in that extraordinary country have admired. They
arrived at Cairo on the 10th of November.
The Nile, like the Ganges, has long been renowned for the daring race
of pirates who infest it. Bruce, and many other travellers, have
celebrated their ingenuity; but the following anecdote, related by
Niebuhr, exhibits their exquisite skill in a still more favourable
point of view: A pasha, recently arrived in Egypt, happening to
be encamped on the banks of the river, his servants, aware of the
dexterity of their countrymen, kept so strict a watch during the
night, that they detected one of the pirates, and brought him before
the pasha, who threatened to put him to death on the spot. The
prisoner, however, entreated permission to show the pasha one of the
extraordinary tricks of his art, in the hope of thereby inducing him to
spare his life. The permission was granted. The man then took up the
pasha’s garments, and whatever else he found in the tent, and having
tied them up into a packet, as the Egyptians do when they are about to
swim across a river, made several turns before the company to amuse
them. He then insensibly approached the Nile, and darting into the
water like lightning, had already reached the opposite shore, with the
pasha’s garments upon his head, before the Turks could get ready their
muskets to fire at him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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