Niebuhr was exceedingly desirous, soon after his arrival at Cairo, of
descending the eastern branch of the Nile to Damietta; but the sky
during the whole winter and spring was so overcast with clouds, and the
rain fell so frequently, that it was impossible to take astronomical
observations. On the 1st of May, however, the weather having cleared
up, he left Cairo. The wind blowing from the north, their progress
was slow, and he had therefore considerable leisure for observation.
The Coptic churches amused him much. In one of these he saw pictures
representing Christ, the Virgin, and several saints, on horseback;
intended, perhaps, to insinuate to their Mohammedan masters, that the
founder of their religion and his followers had not been compelled,
as Christians then were in Egypt, to ride upon asses. These churches,
moreover, were strewed with so many crutches, that a stranger might
conclude, upon observing them, that the whole Coptic community had lost
the use of their limbs; however, upon inquiry, our traveller discovered
that it was the custom among them to stand in church, which many
persons found so wearisome that they resolved to aid their piety with
crutches. The floors were covered with mats, which, not being changed
very frequently, swarmed with fleas, numbers of which did our traveller
the honour to prefer him before any of their ancient patrons. In
approaching Damietta he saw about twenty large boats loaded with bees:
each of these boats carried two hundred hives; the number, therefore,
of the hives here assembled in one spot, was four thousand; and when
the inhabitants of this floating city issued forth to visit the flowers
of the neighbourhood, they must have appeared like a locust cloud.
His stay at Damietta, which is about four miles above the mouth of the
Nile, was short. Europeans are nowhere in the East so much detested, on
account, chiefly, of the profligate character of the French formerly
settled there, who, having debauched several Mohammedan women, were
nearly all massacred by the infuriated populace. Niebuhr’s fancy
that they still remember the crusades, and hate the Franks for the
evils those insane expeditions inflicted on their ancestors, is just
as rational as if the English people were to be supposed to nourish
resentment against all the northern nations, because their barbarous
ancestors made piratical descents upon our coasts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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