The constant arrival of pilgrims from Egypt had now rendered Suez, in
proportion to its extent, more populous than Cairo. These holy men,
being on their way to the city of their prophet, regarded Christians
with an evil eye, just as a bigoted Franciscan travelling to Jerusalem
would regard a heretic or an unbeliever; and on this account Niebuhr
greatly dreaded the voyage he was about to perform in their company
from Suez to Jidda. To avoid, as far as possible, all causes of dispute
with their fellow-passengers, they embarked several days before the
rest, paid their passage, stowed away their luggage, and then amused
themselves with observing the strange characters by which they were
surrounded, not the least extraordinary of which was a rich black
eunuch, who, in imitation of the great Turkish lords, travelled with
his harem.
All the passengers having at length repaired on board, they set sail
on the 9th of October, and sailing along coral reefs, which in bad
weather are highly dangerous, they arrived next day at Tor. Near this
town is a small village inhabited by Christians, to which Forskaal
went alone, for the purpose of visiting what is supposed to be the
site of ancient Elim. While he was absent it was rumoured on board
that the Arabs had formed the intention of pursuing and arresting the
Frank, who had landed with the design of sketching their mountains;
upon which a number of janizaries from Cairo, who happened to be on
board, immediately set out for the village, and having met with M.
Forskaal, conducted him back in safety to the vessel. “Are there many
Christians,” inquires Niebuhr, “who, under similar circumstances, would
do as much for a Jew?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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