On the evening of the 16th of October they discovered, about sunset,
the Emerald Mountains on the coast of Egypt, called _Gebel Zumrud_ by
the Arabs. Next day there happened an eclipse of the sun. In Mohammedan
countries persons who are able to calculate an eclipse are regarded as
consummate physicians. Forskaal had informed the reis, or captain, that
an eclipse was about to take place; and to amuse him and keep him from
interrupting his astronomical observations, Niebuhr had smoked several
glasses, through which he, as well as the principal merchants, might
contemplate the phenomenon. They were all greatly amused, and from that
moment Forskaal enjoyed the reputation of being a second Avicenna. From
a spirit of humane complaisance, which induces us to allow every one an
opportunity of exhibiting his peculiar talents, men are exceedingly apt
to fall ill when they come in contact with a physician. Our traveller’s
Mohammedan companions were particularly polite in this way; for no
sooner had they persuaded themselves that there was a physician on
board than they all discovered that they were attacked by diseases
which had previously lain dormant, and confidingly demanded medicines
and advice. Forskaal prescribed for all. To the majority he recommended
more or less sleep, and a careful attention to their diet. A pilgrim
at length presented himself who complained that he was unable to see
during the night. The physician advised him to light a candle. This
was excellent. The Arabs, who are naturally lively, burst into a loud
laugh, and all their diseases were forgotten in a moment.
Between Ras Mohammed and Hassâni the ship was twice in danger of
being set on fire by the negligence of the women; but at length they
reached this small island in safety, and the Mohammedans, believing
the principal danger to be now over, exhibited various tokens of joy,
firing muskets and pistols, illuminating the ship with lamps and
lanterns, and uttering the triumphant cry of _Be, be, be!_ so commonly
used by the orientals. The sailors and the pilot petitioned for a
present, the former coming round to each passenger with a little boat
in their hands, which, when the collection was over, was thrown into
the sea. During this passage Niebuhr, who, up to his arrival at Suez,
had scarcely seen the face of a Mohammedan woman, had an opportunity
of viewing three or four of them naked in a bath; and his indiscreet
curiosity very fortunately entailed upon him no evil consequences.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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