By this time their appearance was tolerably oriental; the sun had
bronzed their countenances, their beards had acquired a respectable
length, their dress was exactly that of the country, and they had,
moreover, adopted Arabic names. Even their guides no longer took them
for Europeans, but supposed them to be members of the eastern church,
who by forbidden studies had succeeded in discovering the art of making
gold, and were searching among the lonely recesses of their mountains
for some rare plant whose juices were requisite in their alchymical
processes. Niebuhr’s assiduous observation of the stars considerably
aided in strengthening this delusion, which upon the whole, perhaps,
was rather beneficial to them than otherwise.
In the hilly districts of Yemen our traveller observed among the
Arabs a peculiar mode of passing the night. Instead of making use
of a bed, each individual crept entirely naked into a sack, where,
without closing the mouth of it, the breath and transpiration kept him
sufficiently warm. Niebuhr himself never tried the sack, but very soon
acquired the habit, which is universal among the Arabs of Yemen, of
sleeping with the face covered, to guard against the malignant effects
of the dews and poisonous winds. Here M. Forskaal discovered the small
tree that produces the balm of Mecca, which happening to be in flower
at the time enabled him to write a complete description of it, which he
did seated under its branches. The inhabitants, who knew nothing of its
value, merely made use of it as firewood, on account of its agreeable
odour.
Upon descending from these mountainous countries, where the climate
is as cool and salubrious as in most parts of Europe, Niebuhr found
the heat of the Tehama almost insupportable, and entering a little
coffee-house, overwhelmed with fatigue, threw himself on his mat in
a current of air, and fell asleep. This heedless action nearly cost
him his life. He awoke in a violent fever, which hung about him for a
considerable time, and reduced his frame to such an extreme state of
weakness that the slightest exertion became painful. Von Haven, too,
whose supreme delight consisted in brandy, wine, and good eating, and
who seldom quitted his sofa, except for the purpose of placing himself
before his gods at the dinner-table, now began to experience the
impolicy of feeding like an ogre in the deserts of the Tehama, and very
quickly fell a victim to his imprudence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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