While they were in this perplexity, one of their servants arrived in
great hurry and confusion, with the news that their books and clothes
had been thrown out through the window at their lodgings, and the door
shut against them. They moreover found, upon inquiry, that it would
be difficult to discover any person who would receive into his house
individuals suspected of meditating the poisoning of the city; but at
length a man bold enough to undertake this was found. Such was their
position when they received from the English merchant above alluded to
an invitation to dinner. “Never,” says Niebuhr, “was an invitation more
gladly accepted; for we not only found at his house a dinner such as we
had never seen since our departure from Cairo, but had at the same time
the good fortune to meet with a man who became our sincere and faithful
friend. The affair of the custom-house was long and tedious; but at
length, by dint of bribery and perseverance, their baggage, snakes
and all, was delivered to them, and they even rose, in consequence
of a cure attempted by M. Cramer on the governor’s leg, into high
consideration and favour.”
Niebuhr was here again attacked by dysentery, and Von Haven died.
This event inspired the whole party with terror, and having with
much difficulty obtained the governor’s permission, they shortly
afterward departed for the interior. They travelled by night, to escape
the extreme heat of the sun, but soon found the roads so bad as to
render this mode of journeying impracticable. The country during the
early part of their route was barren, and but thinly inhabited; but
in proportion as they departed from the shore the landscape improved
in beauty and fertility. At the small city of Jerim, on the road to
Sana, Niebuhr had the misfortune to lose his friend Forskaal, the best
Arabic scholar of the whole party, and a man who looked forward with
enthusiasm to the glory to be derived from the successful termination
of their travels. The bigotry of the Mohammedans rendered it difficult
to obtain a place of burial for the dead, who was interred in the
European fashion; which, immediately after their departure, caused the
Arabs, who imagine that Europeans bury treasures with their dead, to
exhume the body. Finding nothing to reward their pains, they compelled
the Jews to reinter him; and as these honest people complained that
they were likely to have no remuneration for their labour, the governor
allowed them to take the coffin in payment, and restore the body naked
to the earth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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