I have to thank Major-General Robley, not only for drawing the tail-piece to the second chapter, and thereby giving the book a minute but correct pattern of the Maori _moko_ or face-tattooing, but for kindly lending me photographs and drawings from which several other illustrations have been taken. Two or three of the tail-pieces are after designs in Mr. Hamilton's _Maori Art_. I have also to thank Mr. A. Martin of Wanganui for his kind permission to use his fine photograph of Mount Egmont and a view on a "papa" river. Mr. W.F. Crawford was good enough to put at my disposal his photograph of the Te Reinga waterfall, a view which will be new even to most New Zealanders. The portrait of Major Kemp and that of a Muaopoko Maori standing by a carved canoe-prow were given to me by Sir Walter Buller. "A New Zealand Settler's Home" was the gift of Mr. Winckleman of Auckland, well known amongst New Zealand amateur photographers. I have also gratefully to acknowledge the photographs which are the work of Mr. Josiah Martin of Auckland, Messrs. Beattie and Sanderson of Auckland, Mr. Iles of the Thames, and Mr. Morris of Dunedin, and to thank Messrs. Sampson, Low and Co. for the use of the blocks from which the portraits of Sir Harry Atkinson and the Hon. John McKenzie are taken. Contents Chapter I THE LONG WHITE CLOUD Chapter II THE MAORI Chapter III THE MAORI AND THE UNSEEN Chapter IV THE NAVIGATORS Chapter V NO MAN'S LAND Chapter VI MISSION SCHOONER AND WHALE BOAT Chapter VII THE MUSKETS OF HONGI Chapter VIII "A MAN OF WAR WITHOUT GUNS" Chapter IX THE DREAMS OF GIBBON WAKEFIELD Chapter X IN THE CAUDINE FORKS Chapter XI THROUGH WEAKNESS INTO WAR Chapter XII GOOD GOVERNOR GREY Chapter XIII THE PASTORAL PROVINCES Chapter XIV LEARNING TO WALK Chapter XV GOVERNOR BROWNE'S BAD BARGAIN Chapter XVI _TUPARA_ AGAINST ENFIELD Chapter XVII THE FIRE IN THE FERN Chapter XVIII GOLD-DIGGERS AND GUM-DIGGERS Chapter XIX THE PROVINCES AND THE PUBLIC WORKS POLICY Chapter XX IN PARLIAMENT Chapter XXI SOME BONES OF CONTENTION Chapter XXII EIGHT YEARS OF EXPERIMENT Chapter XXIII THE NEW ZEALANDERS BIBLIOGRAPHY List of Illustrations Te Reinga Waterfall A Western Alpine Valley The White Terrace, Rotomahana On a River--"Papa" Country Maori and Carved Bow of Canoe A Maori Maiden Stern of Canoe Maori Wahiné Carved Gateway of Maori Village Mount Egmont, Taranaki View of Nelson Sir George Grey The Curving Coast War Map Rewi Major Kemp Kauri Pine Tree The Hon. John Mackenzie Sir Harry Atkinson A New Zealand Settler's Home Picton--Queen Charlotte's Sound The Hon. John Balance Te Waharoa. Henare Kaihau, M.H.R. Hon. James Carroll, M.H.R. Right Hon. R.J. Seddon (_Premier_). Mahuta (_The Maori "King"_) Maoris Conveying Guests in a Canoe A Rural State School Map of New Zealand Chapter I THE LONG WHITE CLOUD[1]