So he had misjudged Carlisle. So Carlisle was as bad as other people--worse, indeed, because better things might reasonably have been expected from him. Very well. It was to be war between them, was it? Those who played at bowls must look out for rubbers. Carlisle should see what kind of an antagonist he had provoked. He had threatened to make his sceptre totter in his hands. Now he would show that he could do it. So he struck out the lines of eulogy, and substituted: "_Yet did or Taste or Reason sway the times, Ah! who would take their titles with their rhymes! Roscommon! Sheffield! With your spirits fled, No future laurels deck a noble head; No Muse will cheer with renovating smile The paralytic puling of Carlisle._" Such was the Parthian shaft; and Byron, having discharged it, shook the dust of England from off his feet, and departed on the grand tour. CHAPTER VI THE GRAND TOUR--FLIRTATIONS IN SPAIN The glory has long since departed from the grand tour. We all take it nowadays, with less and less sense of adventure, and more and more expectation of home comforts. Sir Henry Lunn has pegged out the course, and stationed lecturers along it at intervals, to prevent us from confounding Scylla and Charybdis with Sodom and Gomorrah. They stir appropriate emotions in our breasts like stokers making up a fire. We play bridge in the evening on steamers "replete with every modern convenience"; and we are back again, in about six weeks, with a smattering of second-hand culture which goes the way of all smatterings in a very brief period of time. It is a shadowy, unreal, unsatisfactory business--a poor imitation of the grand tour as our forefathers knew it. Some of them, no doubt, travelled frivolously and superficially. The Earl of Carlisle did so when he and Fox, as Samuel Rogers tells us, "travelled from Paris to Lyons for the express purpose of buying waistcoats and, during the whole journey, talked of nothing else." But there was plenty of emotion in travel for those who cared for it--a real impression of a widening horizon on which unusual figures might be expected to appear--a sense of escaping from the familiar crowd and plunging into an unknown world in which anything might happen. The temptation was strong for the traveller of temperament to strike an attitude and say: "Behold me! The old moorings were impossible; the old lights gave no guidance. I prefer to be adrift on a strange sea, seeking I know not what. Travel is my escape from life. A woman tempted me, and tortured me, and so, unless a woman heals the wound a woman gave----"