Temple Bar was removed about forty years since; but if you traverse the
Strand, and, leaving the jostle of the Strand behind you, venture
on--past Mr. Gladstone's statue and the two churches which part the
streaming traffic as rocks part the waters of a river--you will become
suddenly aware of two pointed wings and a grotesque dragon-shaped head
showing black between high buildings against a narrow slip of sky.
This is the "Griffin." He stands where Temple Bar stood. Above him tower
the clock and gray pinnacles of the law courts. Westward, he looks
toward the seethe of near Aldwych, and far Trafalgar Square. Behind him
clang the news-presses of Fleet Street. At his right wing and his left
you will find the advocates of our law; "barristers," as we call them.
They are not quite of the every-day world, these barristers. Their
minds, even their bodies, seem to move more precisely. The past
influences them rather than the present. Sentimentality influences them
hardly at all. At home--even now very few of them live at the wings of
the Griffin--these men may be lovers, husbands, friends. Here they are
advocates of a code, a selected body, inheritors of a
six-hundred-year-old tradition. Very pleasant fellows on the whole: not
at all inhuman; only--as befits their calling--a little aloof.
It may perhaps help our stranger to understand this aloofness if,
turning southward from the Griffin down the clefts of Inner or Middle
Temple Lane, he will explore some of the "courts" where these barristers
of ours have their "chambers"--Hare Court, Pump Court, Fountain Court,
Miter Court, and the rest.
Here, not a newsboy's shout from Fleet Street, our exploring stranger
will find a veritable sanctum of time-defying quiet--red-brick and
gray-stone houses, paved or graveled walks, fountains, courtyards,
trees, gardens, cloisters, colonnades, and quadrangles; the whole set,
as though it were a symbol of tradition controlling progress, midway
between the moneyed "City" and the governing "West End."
But the quiet of the Temple--Gray's Inn and Clifford's Inn lie north of
the Griffin and beyond our story--is an illusive quiet; the quiet of
good manners concealing busyness. If you watch the faces of the men who
walk those graveled courtyards, you will see them as obsessed by thought
as the faces of any merchant in the moneyed City. If you climb the
uncarpeted stairs of those Georgian houses, and read the names painted
in block letters on the doors, you will find many whom the clanging
presses of Fleet Street have made familiar--and many, many more to whom
even the fame of Fleet Street has never come.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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