The bell was tolling for afternoon service, the voice of a guide could
be heard echoing in the chapels below, and we had the place to
ourselves. Mrs. Darling returned and had another look at Charles II,
just, as she expressed it, to "wonder what any woman could see in him,"
and, for the moment, I was alone with those waxen men and women who
stared at me across the ages. There is something oddly intimate about a
wax figure, and I was making strides in the acquaintance of Queen
Elizabeth and Nelson when the verger returned with the intimation that
sight-seers must depart, as Evensong was about to begin. Remorselessly
he switched off the lights and we clattered down the wooden stairway,
leaving the little company of strangely assorted ghosts to their dreams,
and maybe an interchange of thoughts as the outcome of their long
broodings.
It occurred to me as we came into the sunlight again, that while we were
about it we would go and see the older figures which have been placed in
the Norman Undercroft. And so we turned into Dean's Yard, and from
thence to the cloisters, pausing now and again to read the inscriptions
on the tombstones over which we walked. The lettering on some of them
had been freshly chiselled, and the names stood out, giving, it seemed,
new life to the memories of those who lay beneath.
Mrs. Darling complained that I might have taken her to a more cheerful
place, giving it as her opinion that Westminster Abbey was "nothink more
than a bloomin' churchyard". I had to remind her that it is we who, in
that place, are the ghosts, and the ghosts who are the real people. The
present no longer exists for us. We left it, half an hour ago, to
adventure into the dim old ages.
"Speak for yourself, sir," said she. "The present's good enough for me.
You got a white mark on yer coat leaning up against the wall, and
there's the old chap waiting what you asked to take us underground."
The verger approached with a bunch of keys, leading the way through the
"dark cloister" to a door above which was an iron grating. At its
opening, a gloomy dungeon-like interior was disclosed, but he put up his
hand, and in a moment the Undercroft was flooded with electric light. It
is of spacious proportions and of Norman architecture, having a
clean-swept empty appearance. On the floor are some glass cases
containing the oldest of the effigies, the actual figures which were
carried at the funerals. Here is Katherine of Valois. I never hear her
name without remembering a passage in Pepys' Diary, where he says: "To
Westminster Abbey and there did see all the tombs very finely, having
one with us alone ... and here we did see, by particular favour, the
body of Queen Katherine of Valois, and I had the upper part of her body
in my hands, and I did kiss her mouth, reflecting upon it that I did
kiss a queen, and that this was my birthday, thirty-six years old."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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