We found that the iron railing shut off a little world of "God's
Houses," as they call them in Belgium, from the squalid road and the
tall ugly buildings opposite. On a tablet was inscribed the laconic
statement, "Chas. Hopton, Esq.: Sole founder of this charity. Anno
1752," and when the winter's gales roar down the chimneys at nights, or
the rain beats against the casements, I hope the pensioners sometimes
give Charles a grateful thought.
The houses are built in blocks round three sides of a green which is
traversed by paved paths and set with trees, one tree in each section.
The grass was very green, and pigeons were assembled on the tiled roofs.
There were wooden benches placed at intervals, and a sleek cat sat on
one of them, whilst some caged birds sang unconcernedly over its head.
I spoke to an old man who stood at the door of one of the houses, and he
took us to the back of his dwelling to show us his little garden, in
which a few chrysanthemums were making a brave struggle against the city
smoke. Each house, he pointed out, had its allotment, but the
overshadowing warehouses and factories made gardening a rather thankless
task.
Continuing our way we turned into a side street of mean houses, at the
end of which the vicinity of the river was disclosed by the rattle and
clank of huge cranes as they made their lazy circular movements against
the sky.
We were in Shakespeare's world, and Bear Garden's Alley must have been
named after the Bear Garden, which was almost next door to the Globe
Theatre, where Shakespeare acted. Rose Alley, too, was reminiscent of
the Rose Theatre, where Ben Jonson's plays were performed. But what has
this dingy wharf to do with the rural scene amidst which those old
theatres were placed? Surely there never could have been fields and
country lanes in this neighbourhood of slums, factories, and
warehouses! Fields and lanes which would be sweet with the scents of
summer evenings, and which Shakespeare must have walked, thinking
perhaps of "a bank where wild thyme grows, quite over-canopied with
luscious woodbine".
It was low tide, and the river flowing oilily between its banks was of
the same hue as the mud. A fog haze lurked in the background all round,
and on the opposite side a red-painted barge stood out as if having
caught the warmth of a hidden sun. A few moments ago there had been no
St. Paul's, but now there grew the vague outline of a vast circumference
suspended in the air high above the warehouses opposite. Minute by
minute, as the veil-thinned details were born, the sun found the gold
cross, and the dome washed with purple rose as at the touch of an
enchanter's wand into the sun-rayed vista.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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