After proceeding a mile or so, taking two or three turns to look for
improvement, I began to perceive evident signs on the part of the
road of retrograding into lane-ism; the county had evidently deserted
it, and though made for cars and coaches, its traffic appeared to be
now confined to donkeys carrying turf home from the bog, in double
kishes on their back. Presently the fragments of a bridge presented
themselves, but they too were utterly fallen away from their
palmy days, and in their present state afforded but indifferent
stepping-stones over a bog stream which ran, or rather crept, across
the road. These, however, I luckily traversed, and was rewarded
by finding a broken down entrance to a kind of wood on the right
hand. In Ireland, particularly in the poorer parts--to rank among
which, County Leitrim has a right which will not be disputed--a
few trees together are always the recognised sign of a demesne,
of a gentleman's seat, or the place where a gentleman's seat has
been; and I directly knew that this must be a demesne. But ah! how
impoverished, if one might judge from outward appearances. Two brick
pillars, from which the outside plaster had peeled off and the coping
fallen, gave evidence of former gates; the space was closed up with
a loose built wall, but on the outer side of each post was a little
well worn footpath, made of soft bog mould. I of course could not
resist such temptation, and entered the demesne. The road was nearly
covered with that short dry grass which stones seem to throw up, when
no longer polished by the wealthier portion of man or brute kind.
About thirty feet from the gap a tall fir had half fallen, and lay
across the road, so that a man should stoop to walk under it; it was
a perfect barrier to any equipage, however humble, and the roots had
nearly refixed themselves in their reversed position, showing that
the tree had evidently been in that fallen state for years.
The usual story, thought I, of Connaught gentlemen; an extravagant
landlord, reckless tenants, debt, embarrassment, despair, and ruin.
Well, I walked up the deserted avenue, and very shortly found myself
in front of the house. Oh, what a picture of misery, of useless
expenditure, unfinished pretence, and premature decay!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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